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quote:
Originally posted by Chris SI was speaking to him last weekend & I can tell you that due to personal reasons as yet he has not been able to swap the diff out for the original one,
If you need a spare rear diff? I think I have one here you can ‘borrow’ or did you already have one from me?
Next month Derrik is coming here to visit me in Emmeloord for a week end, so hopefully he can bring it with him.
Ok thanks Chris, I will wait for a little while longer, I know he had some personal reasons for it as he told me a couple of months back, but since then I was just not able to contact him anymore, was getting a bit worried thats all. Had a customer for a diff rebuild, but in the end he didn’t need it done in a hurry, so am fixing it as is. Thanks for the ‘borrow’ option anyway [
]quote:
Originally posted by Chris Squote:
Originally posted by Padrigquote:
Originally posted by Trev16vHello Patrick, many thanks indeed for your kind offer.
I’ve started to take my rear differential to bits just to see if I think I’m up to doing it by following your excellent images. If I give up, I may send you a box of bits. [
]So far I’ve removed the casing bolts and have slightly split the case. I’ve also removed the two driveshaft flanges, and the solenoid unit.
I’ll have a look at your photos again and build a shopping list of tools to buy.
Looking through your images, I can see the 41mm socket / spanner that you have made to remove the locknut. I wonder if the following spanner could be used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-41MM-X-46MM-BI-HEX-DEEP-OFFSET-RING-WRENCH-SPANNER-/251014339065?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a719ed9f9Also, can you recall the size of the oil drain hex socket required?
Hey Trev,
The 41mil Draper spanner looks fine to me, however, you might need to flex off a little from the outside all the way round the 41mil socket to fit it into the housing, it all depends on how thick the spanner is, but think you will be OK with that.
As Derrik pointed out, the Hex bolt is 17mil.
If any questions arise, give me a yell (might be a hard Yell to hear it over here all the way from Norway [
] )All the best,
Norway????
ahum… don’t know why I said that [
] think they removed part of my brain during my last operation ?! [:p] never mind my comment.quote:
Originally posted by Trev16vHello Patrick, many thanks indeed for your kind offer.
I’ve started to take my rear differential to bits just to see if I think I’m up to doing it by following your excellent images. If I give up, I may send you a box of bits. [
]So far I’ve removed the casing bolts and have slightly split the case. I’ve also removed the two driveshaft flanges, and the solenoid unit.
I’ll have a look at your photos again and build a shopping list of tools to buy.
Looking through your images, I can see the 41mm socket / spanner that you have made to remove the locknut. I wonder if the following spanner could be used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-41MM-X-46MM-BI-HEX-DEEP-OFFSET-RING-WRENCH-SPANNER-/251014339065?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a719ed9f9Also, can you recall the size of the oil drain hex socket required?
Hey Trev,
The 41mil Draper spanner looks fine to me, however, you might need to flex off a little from the outside all the way round the 41mil socket to fit it into the housing, it all depends on how thick the spanner is, but think you will be OK with that.
As Derrik pointed out, the Hex bolt is 17mil.
If any questions arise, give me a yell (might be a hard Yell to hear it over here all the way from Norway [
] )Cleaning the inside of the diff housing can be done using WD40 and Brake cleaner on difficult stains (although it is hardly ever necessary to use brake cleaner) the outside of the housing can be cleaned off using Brake cleaner and a bit of sandblasting, thats all.
All the best,
If you like, I can order them for you through Conrad.nl (or Conrad.de).
The size 0,5-1,0 costs € 2,59 for a pack of 5 connectors, the larger 1.0-1.5 are € 2,89 for a pack of 5 connectors, and finally the size 1.5-2.5 are € 3,95 for a pack of 5 connectors.Or if you would like to order yourself, go to http://www.conrad.nl (or .de) and search for “amd mini connector”
quote:
Originally posted by Trev16vHi Patrick,
Sorry to hijack on this a bit, but I am putting my Golf G60 Syncro back together and I have two rear differentials (including VCs) in the garage to choose from. I was thinking of attempting to refurbish one myself, so I’ll have a look through your photos to see if I think I’m up to the challenge. However, would you be willing to do the work for me if I decide not to? I’d want to properly pay you for your time.
The other question is of the viscous coupling. I bought a second differential / VC from ChrisP on here because my own VC had obviously been leaking oil. As far as I know there is no way to inspect, repair or test these units (other than on the car) so I thought perhaps I’d just judge which one has the most oil in it by comparing how much they weigh. Do you have any experience with VCs?
Trev
Hey Trev,
I will be happy to do the work for you if you decide not to go through with it, no problem.
There is a way to refurbish the VC unit, however, the silicone oil used is mighty expensive, but doable nonetheless, I have refurbished the VC on my car about a year ago, and it still doing its job nicely.Let me know what ever you decide,
quote:
Originally posted by Chris SIf you want to sell them? they might be a good buy for Colin
btw I cant give you a current dealer price,
Since my computer crash I don’t have a current version of ETKA
At the moment I am working with a very old version
its ETKA 6 update 431 which was last updated on 12-02-2002 so tomorrow its 10 years old, happy birthday ETKA! [
][
]I am trying to find the original receipt for my first Syncro, its dated somewhere in summer 2002, so thats also 10 years I have been messing about with them!
when I find it I will post it on here.Hey Chris, I’m currently running ETKA 7 and have a copy on DVD-rom, so next time we see each other, I will bring it with me. If you like I can mail it to you by post…
quote:
Originally posted by re2im ready whenever you are fella. Ive seen a few laproscopic operations as I also work in theatres when they need xrays. Really interesting to watch!
Yes, very interesting indeed, unfortunately I could not see them doing it though, the area they need to work on can not be done with local anesthetics or a lumbar puncture, so they had to knock me out, especially my last operation of last friday, … needed to cut me open, in the same area, so had to ‘hammer’ me down again
Very interesting work you do by the way! Respect!
quote:
Originally posted by re2ouch! I work in a hospital and have seen some things, but luckily this is a good hospital most of the time
yes id like a set please
Hope you are well!
Thanks, just had my (hopefully last) operation last friday and am home again now. They fixed my last remaining stomach hernia and am a cut of about 16cm richer (got a total of 3 cuts, 1=46cm 2=16cm and the third is 5cm) and about 7 holes (from laproscopic incisions) So hopefully this was the last one for the coming few years. So again need to recuperate for a couple of weeks [xx(]
Hope you are not in a great deal of hurry with the grills, I will start work on it asap.quote:
Originally posted by re2as above please
Sorry for the lack of reply up to now Dave.
Have been busy with all kinds of things including a law suit to my local hospital… have kind of devastated my chances to go back to work due to negligence with my past 6 operations (butchers![]) However, have found the time now again to make a start with building the Rear Light grills, so if you are still interested, I will start building your set.quote:
Originally posted by Chris SYes I know all of the above are in Holland!
but if you need any help with a translation you can always ask Patrick, I am sure he will jump at the chance to help!
That’s right Chris,…[
]quote:
Originally posted by Houseydamn… my golf does not behave like described at all…
What does she do then Housey?
Remember, my Country did some strange things a couple of years ago as well, upon removing the vacuum actuator, it reveled the fault,.. the nylon/plastic push/pull rod was broken and the free-wheel lock plate was free to move between the locked and unlocked position, so one time I had permanent 4wd and the other time I only had 2wd. Also when reversing on a slippery surface, I always had a rattling/knocking sound from the Syncro and often only 2wd when reversing…On your car, when driving and reversing, does your steering wheel feel heavy? after driving back and forth and turning corners, does your Viscous Coupling feel warm to the touch?
These are just some of the things that can happen when that simple nylon rod is broken!
Here’s the Golf Country Supplement https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4q66352HxlrMGJmZGE4Y2YtZTU2Yy00Y2MxLTg3ZDMtMzFkMjI0YTIyOTNh
And here the Syncro Specifics from the user manual https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4q66352HxlrOTA0NDEyZTgtOTBmMy00NDgzLWJiYmEtYzEyNmFmMmNhMGU4
When the freewheel lock is disengaged (when either of the forward gears is engaged and clutch released beforehand) the Syncro system will act as any other ‘normal’ Golf, and can therefore be towed with front wheels lifted.
The thing is, when done in the above stated order, the rear wheels will spin freely (hence ‘free-wheel lock’) on their internal planetary differential.
This way, the only way to activate power to the rear wheels is when the front wheels start turning faster than the rear wheels do. But in the case of lifting the front and towing the vehicle, the front wheels do not turn at all, so no power is transmitted to the viscous coupling, so no power is needed to turn the rear wheels, who in turn start spinning on their planetary differential.Only when the free-wheel lock is engaged, it will lock the crown wheel to this planetary differential and make the rear permanently connected to the front wheels.
In case of Brake testing, the Syncro only pushes the car of the brake tester when the front wheels are brake tested (front wheels start spinning faster than the rear, so viscous coupling stiffens and hereby engages the crown wheel and turning the rear wheels)
This effect is only recreated on the rear wheels when the car is placed in reverse gear, then the Vacuum actuator manually ‘locks’ the freewheel lock.The reason VW added the Vacuum Actuator to the Syncro, is to give the car 4wd in reverse gear as well as it would do when traveling in a forward motion.
If you like I can scan the original Syncro Suplement manual where this towing procedure is also described, although i’ve only got the German version.
Good luck
Well apart from the lack of 4wd in reverse, the absence of the vacuum actuator gives the freewheel lock plate the freedom to move back and forth resulting in a locked position while for example, sharp cornering to the left and an unlocked position while sharp cornering to the right!
The Locking-plate (below) slides over the splined shaft
and then Is free to move and engage the free-wheel bolts (below)
I have had this when the nylon push-rod of my vacuum actuator was broken. Some times I noticed a strange clicking sounds when reversing on slippery ground and when cornering. When I finally opened up my rear diff, I noticed the problem and it had caused some damage to the free-wheel locking bolts, and chipped off a piece of metal from the free-wheel locking plate, resulting in some minor damage to the crown-wheel (some scarring).
So to be honest, if I were you, I would change it pretty soon!
