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if you use a passat g60 gearbox the transfer case will have 22mm lugs in the drive flange, some GU powerd syncros have 22mm lugs on there propshafts and they will go straight on to the drive flang of a passat transfer case. i think it soposed to be year dependant so 90 speck should be 22mm pre 90 18mm ( but i have found both 18mm and 22mm lugs on pre and post 90 cars )
you can press the lugs out and make a conversion doughnut and go 18mm-22mm 22mm-25mm and even 18mm-25mm just make sure the lugs prees out square and cleanly without distorting else they won’t locate properly, then they cam out and snap the bolts and make a mess of the prop or drive flange
had it happen on mine and it was a bit of a pain to fix.as chris said for reliablity you really need a cabel change box. i know some people who have done g60 conversions on rod change and claim to be running 200bhp reliably but that makes me think that they spend all there time polishing and don’t ever actualy drive it. most g60 conversions you see on ebay are rod boxes as well
. i broke a pair of rod change boxes with a mildly tuned 2.0 8v couterflow the other issue with rod change is clutch life as the wheels won’t spin much the clutch tends to get more wear and if your motor is makeing good torqe if you set of in a real hurry the wheels won’t spin but the clucth will spin up go cabel change and 228mm clutch it’ll last a lot longer and won’t spin up 
thats a price i got given to have my exhaust system copyed ( with a few changes to make fitting easyer ) but dose require’s cabel change gearbox. the rear and mid sections are going in soon to be copyed as i think my mid pipe is on its way out.
at that price i can assuer you that there are no manderel bends in it, and the silencer boxes will be cheep and it’ll be mig welded like most systems are. once you mention manderl bends, and tig things get expensive. i chould get it priced to be done with mandrel bends, and tig but would be silly money
can get the whole exhaust system done out of stainless from the cylinder head to bumper for £ 550 includeing 4-2-1 ( manifold back is 2 – 1/2″ )
yes it is sort of self regulating (that’s if mods are declared ) the volvo i got very shortly after the nova and got money back from insurance company ( never quite worked out how they managed to think the volvo was less risky tho i sopose it did look like a volvo )
but yes think the aa is just bleeting
i’ll disagree with that, i managed to insure a volvo 2.3 turbo for a lot less than a 1.2 nova saloon when i first started driveing
ban no2 they will just buy cars with bigger engines, then they chould go fast all the time. so changign the rules will acheve not much really.
they choudl shove a bhp/ton limute on ppl for 1st yr of driveing that would probaly be most effective as most cars i seen in the scrappy arn’t modifyed
how the hell did you snap that one.
the captive nut normaly rips free long before the bolt snaps. still prods going to end up sliceing the mount open welding a new nut down then sticching it back up
thats an abf cast manifold in my photo,
lhd everything is diffrent, much much easyer, as phots above show just cut and shut the top of headers onto lhd downpipe. so i had two options ether do some massive mods to lhd downpipe and graft it onto 16v headers. or start from scratch and i think that is easyer if have a good selection of pipe and a good welder to hand. also going ether side of the prop with the downpipes meant they chould be bigger
If there’s material you can get on, set the welder RIGHT up on high power, with a comparatively low wire speed and get some heat into the bolt remains as you gob the nut on there. As Danny says – the heat from the welding will help a lot in releasing the bolt.
I don’t think the drilling method is particularly better – if you slip, or go off centre you can get into a world of pain pretty damned quickly.
