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IMO there is a lot of mis understanding about syncro’s and power splits. syncros are frount wheel drive’s that can divert power to the rear wheels when thr frount wheels slip, beacuse the frount diff is driven directly from the gearbox, power is taken from the frount diff and sent to the rear.
ther are only two ways round this, 1) remove your frount driveshafts and see if anythign gives, or 2) get a frout wheel off the ground like this
soz about the low quality
when i had a 2.0 in my last one the clutch had a really hard life but the engine gave up first. i just used to ignore the gearbox if you have a spare they last longer, std clutches are usefull as they do protect the box to a point, i used to launch mine quite hard just want to drag the clutch a bit to take up the lash in the gearbox first that makes gearboxes last much longer
on rod boxes the transfer case should be left allone there cheeep enough if it dies, but they normaly fail due to age and wear, power wise the box breacks first. 1st gear launches are what kill boxes and clutches in syncros when the diff gets exposed to most torque
no point TBH the diff is the weack spot. you can put 16v shafts in a syncro box, but i think the box had diesel gears in for a reason ( higher shafts speeds will take the starin off the shafts to some point. this works fine till you get to the diff.
the biggest inprovement you can make is to remove the rivets and bolt the diff thats the biggest weack spot. after that there is the diff pins holding the spider gears on. after that the other fails are strippign gears or snaping the main shaft but if your doing that the only option is cabel change.
best tip to preserve box life is to dip the clucth if you meet a hump back bridge. hitting one of them flat in 3rd will kill the box if you dont dip the clucth before you land
KR is missing a bolt hole.
9A has bolt holes rod change gearbox transfer case fouls block tho. tho a tuned 9A/KR will eat a rod change box. cabel change boxes clear the block nicely.
ABF is optimal. electronic managment rather than K jet, is missing a bolt hole for the transfer case bracket. but it’s not the uppper one but the lower one in it’s place there is a large rib running across the block, you can drill through this and modify teh bracket to bolt up, i used two bolts and reused an existing hole that was for an extra support bracket for the abf’s gearbox
175 bhp engine for not meany more £
bubbel blocks foul the rod change gearbox. i ground a 3A back and it lived a life full of abuse and it never caused a problem, also did same to a 6a.
that pritty normal for mecanical speedos, they are alloed to read over a bit but not under so most manufactures make them read over a bit. to take account of wheel options, tyer wear and so you cant blame them for speeding tickets,
i don’t see how you have preset power splits.
100% of the power goes to the front diff – end of, if there is slip between the front tyres and the road, torque can be sent to the rear diff.
so powersplit should always vary between 100/0 and 0/100 depending on how much traction the front end has.
50/50 to me sounds like a permantly locked system, in situations where all wheels have plenty grip and trying to turn at different speeds.
for example having a play on a track with some sticky tyres that would put massive unnecessary strain on components
