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No, on k-jet the fueling is entirly mechanical, there is an ECU but it only deals with ignition timing, it relies on rpm and Manifold pressure but if it detects knock it can retard the ignition, bit better than a dizzy but there are gains to be had by switching to megajolt.
Nasty nasty nasty plastic rubbish.
It makes my eyes bleed.
Looks like the engine has been lowered on its sub-frame to give the ‘raised’ ride height. It’s like another universe of wrongness.
crown wheel and pinion can be changed, the angle drive is driven off the diff so it won’t mess anything up
you may find you run into alignment issues at the front and also it’ll top out the shocks and tear them out of the top mounts if you drive it on rough roads. Been there, done that.
The vacuum system disconnects the rear drive under certain circumstances. It prevents transmission wind-up and is an important part of the system.
If you change the front diff final ratio you will need to change the rear diff also. They must be the same or you will trash the transmission very quickly.
If you want to use the 20VT engine you must use a cable-change (G60) gearbox, rather than the rod change as the power of the 20VT motor will pull a rod change box apart very quickly.
i wouldn’t bother fitting K-jet it’s historic now and still dose the ignition advance in the distubutor, if was doing it i would go and get a PB engine and use digifant 2.( make sure the hazzard light switch is in the same place on the donor car as it means the wireing will be plug and play ) there area few issues with making the lift pump fit but nothing magor and the std fuel lines can be retained. other than that it’s just bolting bit’s on and pluging things in
It wants to be connected before any one way valves so it is seeing the actual manifold pressure, at WOT there is very little vacuum
about 3-4 inches on thursday, and a top up on friday to 7-8 inches upto a foot in places. lots of ultar slippy compacted snow on the back roads much sideway fun
Best initial mod you can make to a standard Syncro – sorts the handling for fun rather than safety (read dullness).
I’ve fitted VW ‘Sebring’ rims to mine. These were fitted to the Golf Rallye and certain Corrados. They fit over the 280mm front brakes and are pretty discrete. You can also get the 15″ Rallye steel wheels for that ultimate OEM+ look, but they’re more rare in the UK than the Sebring rims.
Drop it by about 40mm, with slightly stiffer springs and replace the Golf Syncro rear ARB with a Rallye Golf ARB – the handling bias of the car goes from pig-understeer to lift and drift, with lift-off oversteer if you’re really brutal. The Rallye ARB is an absolute must for your suspension mods – it makes the car a really joyful driving experience – as standard you’ll be so frustrated with it due to the pre-ponderance of understeer – it’s yucky.
