[no such user]

I’ve got one here in Bristol, in reasonable nick.

£30.

I can ship, but if you can collect that would be better.

Call me if you want it: 0777 585 4268

[no such user]

Leaving the Syncro fold, or moving on to bigger, better things?

[no such user]

You revise away.

I take it you’re revising your engine to a VR6, like that one, so you can fit a downpipe like the one pictured?

I only ask because where those pipes are leaving the manifold is totally different to on a Rallye manifold.

If you’re sticking to the 16V then you’re looking at a totally different manifold and downpipe set-up to the one pictured. I would suspect that the engine requirements for the exhaust are considerably different on the 16vV vs the VR6.

Best of luck with not cutting the firewall – I just couldn’t see a way around it.

[no such user]

Since I got a T4 I’ve said underneath it’s like a Golf2 Syncro photocopied up to 1.5x size.

Bears out, doesn’t it?

[no such user]

Ahh it’s a bodge manifold by the sounds of it then, I found a company that will will make me what I want, the price is special but its the only way me thinks.

[no such user]

And the man who bought it has popped up already:

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=78365.0

[no such user]

Have you considered the route for your exhaust on this 20VT conversion?

[no such user]

What the hell will he have done with the exhaust? Would be my key question, especially after Mr P’s endeavours.

[no such user]

would have bought that if not just bought one to convert defo cheeper than doing it myself

[no such user]

The 02c from a Passat g60 is probs your best bet, you could use a Rallye box transfer case it is stronger but they have seperate oil and angle drives can suffer oil starvation.

[no such user]

the mk1 shells still going 200 quid takes it, and now rollign shell again

as the rear crossmender has been sold i don’t knwo of how much use the back part of car will be, shell is allready cut in 1/2. rear 1/2 rear avalible but crossmember has been cut out crossmember

[no such user]

would it not be an idea to put one of those things where a code appears in a picture and you have tyo type it in below. i think in theory they are soposed to stop bots or whatever you want to call them

[no such user]

VHT pain is pants, i’ve never managed to get it to stay on a manufold or downpipe espectaly on the bends, 500 deg C for the heat wrap should be ok steel tends to turn into a puddel ont e floor at about 600 ish

[no such user]

The downpipe was done in about an evening. The big change is in that footwell – that took about three evenings, plus the time to take out and replace the dash (saved setting it on fire).

quote:

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I think could have more fun in pushing the car with an NA motor and it’s less likely to go boom. this ones going to be 8 valves for a while yet anyway

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Skinny tyres, less weight, big brakes and simple motors FTW!

(that’s ‘for the win’ FYI [])

[no such user]

Seeing as the downpipe is so tight, if I don’t wrap it it’s going to strip paint and melt the steering column boot.

Anyone got any recommendations with regards to the best value supplier for heat wrap, what I should get and how much I will need to do the manifold and downpipe. I’d also be interested to hear whether there’s any heatshielding I can attached to the shell to reflect any heat back off the shell (or whether that’s a waste of time).

Finally, should I spray the downpipe with VHT paint (I’ve got some lying around) – does this stuff work?

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