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id say go bike carbs every time they outperform 40’s time and time again, a 40 well 39mm bike carb can drive like twin 40’s but give more power than 45’s.
it can be made to work with lpg, vc’s are quite tough, check it in forwards and reverse, if it’s only no 4wd in reverse check the sender on the gearbox. if it’s not working at all check vac lines and joints in the drive train
40’s belong in the stone age. and don’t fit golf 2 8 valve very well, downdraft are a bit harder to find but a much better solution . they’ll need jetting to your enigne
there are numerous issues with fitting random spring shock combos, no surprise they won’t sit properly int e top mounts try ueing passat spring platform at the top.
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what carb(s) are you running diamondhell?I’m running Digifant II injection, although I wouldn’t waste my time with it next time – I’d go straight for independent throttlebodies (or even just a single throttlebody with a potentiometer on it), running Megasquirt – at least that way you can set the injection up according to the engine’s needs, rather than hoping a pre-defined map will be right.
The Rallye manifold is a nonsense solution for a RHD car, as it simply isn’t designed to work with the RHD steering column – far better to work out the pipes from the ports than trying to work from the end of a manifold that insists the downpipe starts somewhere inconvenient.
Bear in mind this is just from my experience, it’s not set in stone.
leave the vc and attack the doughnut, the lugs do press out, one out about 30 seconds on a lathe and the 25mm lug could be 22mm then press it back in, but there is a possibility that the doughnut may distort a bit so care should be taken when fitting a modified one, the one in mine was a utter sod to locate
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that means the shift rod is gone so pipes can go ether side of the propDon’t forget that changing to cable also means the unused bracket on the steering rack, which is used for the shift mechanism on other Golfs can also be cut off, liberating further precious space on the way to the tunnel.
if cable change is on the plans get the box in the sharp ish, that means the shift rod is gone so pipes can go ether side of the prop, don’t think DH enjoyed modifying the rallye downpipe to fit, if you can get 2ndries to somewhere about where the gear stick is all will be good and the cam will enjoy it
Having mucked about and butchered a Rallye downpipe to suit (and cut my floorpan, my advice would be unless you can weld, stop with the Rallye manifold and take the car to someone who knows their way around a welder and pipe-bender. Get a tubular manifold made up to suit.
Run one primary down one side of the prop, the other down the other and merge them under the prop. Seems to work lovely in Danny’s car.
268 seems to do me OK on a 2.0 bottom end with a flowed ABA head, although it’s crying out for more fuel from mid-rev-range upwards, to match the flow.
with syncro’s the exhaust is an issue when choosing cams, the std RHD exhaust is pants and longer duration cams will quickly start loosening power and causing idle problems as there is no exhaust scavenging to be had so keeping the valve open to long just causes problems at low rpm that normally be found with longer duration cams.
in theory a solid lifter head will help as the ramp angels on cams for solid lifter heads are generally much more aggressive so the valve get to full lift sooner stays there longer and shuts quicker so there is more time for air to get in and out with less overlap. id think about 266 but there is only one way to tell and that’s try them, with a better exhaust on a 2ltr up to a 280 would be quite manageable the idle would be a bit lumpy with those carbs but manageable. that would require making something like this tho
http://diamondhell.com/images/rsgallery/original/P6030080.jpg
http://diamondhell.com/images/rsgallery/original/P6030078a.jpgleave the bottom end well alone then unless it’s showing sings of wear. can cause more issues rebuilding a good bottom end than prevent. 100k isn’t normally lot of miles for a bottom end on a relatively stock bottom end, tho it would perhaps like a new oil pump and a couple of baffles in the sump will help prevent any issues in time to come.
was thinking it had done the 100 k with those carbs which would have been about it for the rings / bores as they never last no where near as long with big carbs. subject to more load and bore washing when running cold ect
if it’s had big carbs on all it’s life, it’ll be worth giving everything a measure up. new main and big end shells, check the bores for wear and if OK de glaze and a new set of rings
If you’re taking the head off then you might as well swap out the block for a 2.0 motor. An AGG block from a Toledo 2.0 Sport will give you a crank sensor that will allow easy installation of Megasquirt, should you wish later on.
http://www.jnlracing.co.uk breathed on my ABA head and for £250 they seem to have got good torque characteristics, but you need to consider that with that work you will out-flow anything designed for a counterflow head, so bike carbs, as suggested by Danny would do you well for a starter. With the 2.0 block plus bike throttlebodies and Megasquirt you’ll have a seriously pokey motor.
To be honest though, a standard ABF motor will see all that without being touched.
