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MASSES in the wet.
I passed three 928s on one lap, during one of the sessions (and no, it wasn’t a warm-down lap).
After a technically successful sortie to the Nordschleife I thought it made sense to find out what I was playing with, so the Golf headed up to Interpro in Thornbury, for a power run:
Diagnosis by the operator = crap map. The Digifant map simply can’t keep up with the crossflow’s breathing.
Only one way around that (in my mind). Time for independent throttlebodies and Megasquirt:
Got these
Just taken delivery of a box of electronic components that will be built into an ECU shortly.
I also have to purchase a custom stub inlet manifold
In the interim I’ve got an MOT to get through, then the next ‘ring trip 12-16th September.
The ITBs and MS won’t be happening until this winter.
quote:
Originally posted by holmesHi has anyone else had troubles fitting the passat 35i springs to there syncro in that the original top mounts don’t fit in the top of the springs and the springs appear to big to rest in the cups?
I had massive issues when I had Golf3 VR6 springs fitted to my Syncro. I suspect these are very similar rates to the Passat springs.
The only springs I still have on my car are the rears and they had to be cut down.
I started with the fronts on too, First of all the car rode far too high at the front. When I had got the ride height correct by cutting off coils the problem was that the springs then rattled in the struts in a de-compression sitation. I currently have Toldeo 2.0 8V Sport front springs on mine, which are a much more appropriate specification for a Golf2 8V Syncro – the weights are about right….. but then so should a Golf2 GTI be, too.
The Passat or G3 VR6 springs are not suitable for this application, cut down or not.
This is the outfit I got my driveshaft from, eventually. The price was good and the service was excellent.
If you are going cable-change on your Syncro this is probably one of the toughest items to obtain as it MUST come from a Rallye Golf, or G60 Syncro.
The reason for this is that the width between the output flanges on the cable change gearbox vs the rod change is +10mm on the cable change gearbox. The Golf models listed above are the only vehicles produced that used the gearbox and driveshaft length combination.
The Syncro shaft is 10mm too long, which means you will get very peculiar handling traits when cornering, as the shaft presses into the output flange centre.
TC is in about the best position to comment on the cross flow 8v and compare it to other engines havering built one and gone to the effort of making a rallye downpipe and manifold fit, and also helped LOTS when i was putting the 16v in mine so knows first hand how much effort is required to fit said engines. tho the engines are in different cars the 2 cars are very similar otherwise. ATM tc’s motor feels not much different to a good counterflow based enigne alltho with more effort more power will be got from it. but it’s a lot of effort for the same power the abf came with out the box
i’ve tried to keep out of this, but i think a some are been a bit harsh to TC. most of this could and should have been settled quite easaly some time ago.
Don’t waste your time with a crossflow 8V. I’ve driven mine extensively and also taken Danny’s out on road and track.
None of the established maps for 8Vs will work on a crossflowed motor, especially if it’s breathed on in any way. Mine leans out way too early. You’ll need loads of bizarre parts to put it together and you need someone who knows what they’re doing to weld up the oil return, re-drill it in the right place for the block you have and then skim the head, too.
By the time you’ve spent sufficient money to make the crossflow worthwhile you might as well just buy a 16V Toledo or similar and a few Golf GTI downpipes to make a tubular manifold and fit a 2.0 16V motor. This will get you far more power from stock and stop you wasting a lot of time. A 16V Toledo will get you a load of nice upgrades too – 280mm brakes, complete set of cable clutch mounts for a cable-change gearbox etc etc.
torque is the gerabox killer. but the rod box should be able to cope with 150 ish ponies if you stick with std gti clutch. find if you nail it a bit hard, the clutch will slip rather tan transferring massive shock loads onto the gearbox, i used to give my old one a lot of abuse the clutch would quite often slip a little on hard gear changes doesn’t do wonders for clutch life but they are cheaper and easer to source than gearboxes, most of the uprated clutches ain’t all that ether, cheep ones have a habit of been the cheapest on on the market painted pretty colours, or just a stock friction plate with a an overkill pressure plate witch give a really crap pedal.
bike carbs normally have a vacuum port/s on each one. it’s worth connecting small inline fuel filter inline with the dizzy when connecting it up it just helps smooth things out a bit
the water hose arrives fabricated out of bits form vw. the cross flow head has different arrangement for the water unions, you could probably bodge a hose up. out of intrest are you staying with the original rod shift box, if so a minor tweek to a counterflow head on a 2.0 bottom end, with any sizable carb or carbs is going to be enuff for the box, yes theer is enuff room to put carbs between the head and firewall but it’s tight, b ut no one said they had to be pointed at the firewall. ever looked at the gti manifold and thougth how easy it would be to modify that to point the carbs forward. crossflow heads seem to give 15% more flow. makes for a very torqey engine and in theory it should get higher up the revs before going flat
to go 16v buy a complete engine it’s the cheapest way the pistons are very diffrent between 8&16v, same apply for cross flow as well. cross flow enigne have got cheep recently mainly because the novelty value has worn off and a lot of cars fitted with those motors are now getting to the breakers for various reasons.
if you buy a bare head it’ll be very expensive power, iirc it needs a water housing at £80 then a rather impressive top hose that’s about another £80, a lumpier cam is also required, and the head also requires work if going on a gu or 2e style block, the best person to speack to about cross flows would be diamond hell as has built and runs one but he can’t post on here any more.my current opinion of the cross flow is that it’s not really worth the money, if you can find a whole enigne for the right price. but if your going to spend that sort of money it may be worth looking into other engines such as the ABF, it may not be as easy to fit due to the exhaust but it’s worth it. more torque and more revs and much more tunable
16v head + 8 v block it bolts up but you get about 8:1 compression, so best avoided unless boosted.
what you really need to do is decide what your budget is and what you want to achieve.
the 1.8 8valve block is ok but due to the poorness of rhd syncro exhaust 2ltr block is top favourite will still go flat up top but the more torque you can get before it dose the better. also good 2ltr bottom ends are east to come by and cheep. head wise options are the same
gu head = pants ( don’t spend money on eject to bin )
pb head = better pants ( it’s manageable few ponies over the gu one is stock form and bit more can be got from it with less effort )
2e head = unwanted pants ( it’s actually so posed to flow slightly better than the pb one put a pb cam in it and then deal with the strange ports. it can be used but gain is minimal with carbs adapter plate is nasty quick tweak pb head will be as good if not better)cross flow 8v = ok ( needs a little work to fit PB, GU, 2e block best flowing 8v head, fits your exhaust, water housing is expensive if you don’t have it. meant to flow 15% better than counterflow head really needs something better than stock exhaust.
far as i can see there are two heads worth looking at PB or cross flow.
if your going crossflow your best off gettign a 16v i think, but if it must be 8 valve get the hole enigne they aren’t exactly expensive any more . and there are a lot of hidden costs if bolting a random crossflow head to a pb, gu, 2e block. also management needs to be thought about as digifant 2 is an expensive mistake
is the shaft itself damaged or have the cv’s just worn out, if so you’d be better off buying a pair of cv joints the shafts are a bit thin in the ground but they are about
it has been known to drill existing jets, probably be looking at somewhere between 0.70 and 1.00 mm . new high quality drill bits are a must it’s not that brass is hard to drill it’s just so it drills a hole the size it says it will
bikes can have throttel body’s or carbs. if you have throttel body’s need an ecu to control the fuel as a minimum, i carbs do not require and ecu just the correct jets. bike carbs a quite a lot more advanced than Webber’s as they manage to get a small enigne to idle with a relatively massive carb. when you compare choke sizes 600 bike carbs normally have roughly the same choke sizes to what Webber 40’s carry and 1000cc carbs simalr sizes to to 45’s. the bike carbs also flow better compared to the same size Webber so they are actually a better carb. alto they were not designed to fit big engines they lend themselves very well to been fitted. at the end of the day the air flow through the carb is similar and that’s all they really care about. jetting them isn’t that hard ether as quite a lot of people have looked into it a lot. all the grass track boys i know have switched to bike carbs and haven’t found a downside
