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In the last picture you’ve got the Mk2 standard golf shocks in, how did you get them in, I couldn’t manage it when I tried.
The only way I thought I might be able to get them in was to drop the whole suspension arm out. It looked like the drive shaft would catch the trailing arm.
thanks
Mikesquote:
Originally posted by Chris SPascal & I also tried to fit a similar set (non coilover) to a Rallye Golf they were also to low at the rear, Most people including suppliers (who should know better) think that golf 1 rear shokkers are a straight swap into a Syncro, but unfortunately for a variety of reasons they are not, a quick search on here will show you why.
original syncro rear shok on left,new golf 1 rear shok on right,
note the difference in spring platform hight ,the golf 1 is lower by 1 inch, and this will cause the tyre to foul the lower spring perch as you can see here!
This is with 2wd rear shokkers fitted, & the front jacked up to match
I’ll check out my Mk3 this weekend when I can see in day light, When I had this problem it was the switch, solved it and recently the problem started again, I think it is another fault now.
There should be still the posting “clicking from the rear” with more details on this maybe from when I first raised it!Right the badges are in, howz best to post up some pics? can I just paste them in here?
BTW
Happy new Year everybodyUpdate so far,
Well first they are making about 6 demo copies to see which one comes out the best, these should be ready on Monday night, then I’ll take some pictures and post up, to see which is prefered.
Then decide on a size/shape we like and thickness of Stainless.
the demos are being made about 3×2 inches rectangle as this is the cheapest way first.
I’ll find out too how much they will want for making them, I’ve said it has to be less than 20quid!
This is very exciting!!! I can’t wait to buy one and put it on my car!Has it got a sunroof? my Scirocco sunroof drains blocked up and filled the footwells with water.
I used an old handbrake cable to poke down, (plastic round the wire prevents scratching!)I’m trying to think of lots of options, then make some demos and see what people think and go for something. maybe all options, so i’ll ask if your idea can be done.
Thanksquote:
Originally posted by ld50hmm I dunno – I sorta thought when you asked for the logo you had something in mind lol.
I guess I sorta envisaged the shape of the logo (pipes etc) cut out (e.g. like waterjet or laser cut) approx 2-3″ wide with perhaps some detail (e.g the words and logo details) etched in the front…but that’s based on not much more than what I’d like. I’d figured I’d pay anything up to about £20 for something like that. I’d figured it woudl be attached with trim tape to the back right along with or replacing the regular badges.
Whether that’s feasible or not though I dunno…
mines debadged as well so that’s why I thought of the back, or a square on to stick on the back or inside the car, on the steering wheel or maybe under the bumpers????…
It’s an etching company, so they’ll use stainless sheets, which can be any thickness.quote:
Originally posted by ld50all debadged here so not sure where I’d put a vw roundel…
how would you get the detail in – is it printed on the stainless or etched in or something?
Right I have had a couple of ideas for the emblem
1. make the emblem to fit the front of the car, so round as a direct replacement for the VW sign on the grill.
2. make it for the back, direct replacement for the vw sign
3. simple square badge to go anywhere on the car inside on the dashboard or on the boot.
what do people think? I’m going to see the company tonight to measure up.
cheersOh, maybe I’ll drive it till it breaks then buy another car! Those diffs are expensive, I now regret not buying an old stock brand new unused diff I was offered for 150! Doh!!
I should be able to sort them too!
I’ll see what happens first with the stainless!quote:
Originally posted by Chris SMe too please, (Depending on cost of course)
I wonder if it would also be possible to get some stick on ones made for inside the front or rear windows? [:p]
I’ll be getting a demo made first and I’ll post up asap to see what you think.
I’m going to buy one for my syncro!!Always good to see other people don’t bother with axle stands and only use a jack [
] safety at work.
Reading this reminded me how the main dealers get it so wrong, at least mine admitted it to me and therefore I trust them a little more…… however I still never use a garage, not trusting those spotty unqualified 16yr old teenagers with my syncro.Why not buy a mk3 tdi syncro from europe and fit the engine and gearbox in your MK2 if you prefer that shape.
My left hooker mk 3 syncro has an amazing gearbox, I cruise to work between 140 and 150kms an hour and it still gives me 43mpg, at 135km it’s doing 3000 revs and when I take it easy i’ll get around 60mpg.
The rubbish gear ratio in my mk2 is the only reason I stopped driving it, I’ll be getting a gearbox from a tdi from europe and hopefully mate it up to my 1.8 8v engine, which will then get a supercharger and fuel injection[]Well it was only half an hr from me so I went over to have a look at it to see if I could use it for parts,
I looked like he got a little confused! the aluminuim checker plate was bolted in across the back doors then the back plate was welded around it! and a couple of angle iron bits across the rear shell meeting the body work with about an inch of welding. not going anywhere near the chassi, no real strength at all.
After going to the effort of putting in the 16v motor, with the complete wiring loom with trip computer etc it would have made a nice syncro.
buy cutting it up it’s not worth much, just for parts really.
The funny bit is that his reserve was £500 quid!!!
naturally I walked away leaving an offer for the running gear no engine.
I don’t expect to be hearing from him!
