[LD50]

damn now I need to make an actual list of things standing in the way of an MOT and hit that hard. The audi rear diff only has a few journeys left in it and I’d like to save one of them in case i have to go get the replacement diff, so if there’s any way at all I can get the syncro working, regardless how rough it looks, it needs to happen pronto.

– fix downpipe exhaust leak
– RR brake cylinder needs replacing (pipe twisted, may actually be ok, would rather replace tho. Have replacement cyl already
– Reversing gearbox switchy thing (probably not actually an issue for mot, only if need 4wd in reverse – REVERSING LIGHT?)
– properly affix the braided fuel lines to the underside of the car. Need to make brackets for that, currently ziptied
– fix stray cable on the FR headlight plug (soldering, easyish)
– put the bumper and chin panel on
– sensors – oil pressure, engine coolant
– add coolant sensor to current expansion tank (should be easy, have part already)
– needs windscreen wipers, old ones are shot.
– scuttle panel small rusty patch – treat & fill for now, weld once mot
– above windscreen small rusty patch – treat & fill for now, weld once mot
– timing/fuelling
– side repeaters – must have some somewhere.
– electrox RR arch and sill

Not essential for mot but fix if possible:
– heating/fan needs replacing (not MOT essential)
– front inner wings (? maybe, not mot req)
– driver side wing mirror broken (may have one on a spare door, possibly not actually MOT req), replace or remove

DONE – pull the wunderbar off (will come back to the wunderbar when mot not priority)
DONE – remove rear wiper (fouls the gti rear screen spoiler).

The timing needs setting by a grownup (or advice from) – currently it’s a bit like the engine is on an elastic band vs the accelerator, so the engine rpm doesn’t track the movement of the accelerator as rapidly as you’d expect so I’m guessing either fuelling or timing, haven’t really done much with either. Anyone with a clue what that might be please shout. The ISV seems to be in and working (buzzes before ignition). It starts and idles just fine, the fuel pump wiring seems fine.

• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

for my own ref – Syncro mk2 reversing switch info:

http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2365

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[LD50]

OMG I FIXED IT!!!

So I managed to take the alarm out, turns out it wasn’t that. Damn. Perfectly good alarm (with cat 1 certification) now in the bin and still none the wiser.

Then I had an idea that perhaps it was just the little switch which is triggered by the brake pedal – it’s on by default unless the brake pedal is fully back up. Guess what..it only bloody worked 😀

So whilst I’m a little annoyed that I removed the alarm for no reason (it was a no-going-back removal)…I’m absolutely overjoyed that I’ve *finally* figured out what the wiring issue was (and that there actually wasn’t even an issue).

I think that means I can actually work towards an MOT now.

There’s still some other little wiring issues like the wiring which comes out of the gearbox…I have no clue what to do about that but I see that as relatively minor in comparison and may not even prevent it from going through an mot.

\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/

at long last 😀

• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

so the person supposedly going to help me with the wiring has failed to materialise several times now so I guess I’m on my own. I think I’m going to have a go at removing the alarm/immob altogether and see where we get to. I like having the remote central locking but if it means the wiring’s all kooky then it’s gotta go.

I have no clue wtf I’m doing re alarm wiring so will just try and unpick the wiring one bit at a time and see what happens. I did the same on my old gti and that ran afterwards so there’s precedent of this approach working at least.

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[LD50]

Made a little bit of progress with the wiring issue today – currently the top segment of both tail lights comes on as soon as the battery is connected and won’t go off.

I found there’s a big plug in the back of the fusebox which seems to do all the wires to the back of the car (fuel pump, lights etc) and if i unplug that then the lights go off, but then obviously there’s no fuel pump etc. It’s not much progress but it’s something.

It actually seems like whatever’s switching the lights on is doing so *before* the fusebox. I’m thinking perhaps the alarm/immobiliser is the culprit but that’s a whole mess of wires I haven’t dared get into yet. The alarm was installed on the old motor/loom so I guess it’s possible something zigged when it should have zagged when we swapped the loom over.

I did manage to eliminate a whole section of the loom which didn’t seem to be doing anything (possibly for the elec windows) so there’s a bit less clutter in there now, and found a couple of like-to-like connectors which weren’t plugged in and nothing caught fire or melted when i plugged them in so i guess that was maybe the right thing to do.

It still starts and runs fine, I’ve got the high temp rtv to seal the downpipe flange to get it thru the mot, but obviously with the wiring as it is it’s going nowhere in a hurry.

If there’s any wiring experts on here who have ideas then I’m all ears, and I’d be happy to trade some welding time for face-to-face help with wiring if anyone has the skills and the time. I get ‘dog-head’ with that many wires :-\

Progress!

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[LD50]

Hmm that is weird – mine definitely has pas though I guess it could have been a retrofit. Unlikely tho I think.

The uk syncro was similar spec to the GL wasn’t it, so whilst not a gti it was one spec level or so lower, surely must have had pas as an option.

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[LD50]

just out of curiosity – do you not get the “private messaging” link at the top?

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[LD50]

sure thing just let me know what you want measured and I’ll do what I can. The car’s on ramps at the moment so measurements from the underside of the boot will be problematic but from inside the boot should be fine….

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[LD50]

oh lol, well that might have done it 😉

It should resize pics(not sure whether it keeps the originals or not, was a while ago) but resising big images will give it something to think about.

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[LD50]

it’s been a while since I posted any updates but I’ve been busy with work and the driveway’s been kinda full with cars and bikes so haven’t really had time to work on the syncro much recently. However I recently sold the polo so now have some driveway back and can hopefully resume working on the syncro.

After welding up the (w)underbar I guess either something warped a bit with the heat or I made some measurements off slightly since a couple of the front “prongs” don’t line up with the holes which secure it to the front bumper rail. They’re only out by a little bit (<5mm) but it all fitted so neatly before and I'd like to get back to that. I wondered if perhaps the car was twisted slightly (e.g. by being jacked up differently) but as far as I remember it was on ramps (looks to be in the previous pics) when I built it and it's on the same ramps now. The misalignment also isn't gradually off more to one side as I'd expect from the chassis twisting. It's the middle two prongs which are out of alignment. So I guess something got too hot during finish welding or I messed up a couple of the initial positions in the process.

Hopefully it shouldn't be a massive issue, with a bit of luck I just need to make a couple of cuts and get everything to line up nicely again and re-weld those joins, perhaps with it all in place so I can check the fitment.

I need to get some checkerplate for one of my scooter projects so hopefully I'll have some bits left to test plating the lower panels of the underbar. I recently built a slim-line skid-plate/sump-protector type thing for a very lowered mini cooper using checkerplate floor tiles and it came out surprisingly solid and has apparently been doing a great job, so I'm interested to see how well it might do here.

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[LD50]

I *think* I understand what you mean – so where the floor of the boot should join the rear panel which runs under the tail-lights shoud line up on the inside and doesn’t… is that right?

Do you want me to take pics or measurements from my syncro? It’s RHD but I don’t see that making much difference at the back end..

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[LD50]

leaving this for a while to see if it times out.

Tested this, left it for 30+mins, with pics attached… let’s see if it works

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[LD50]

testing again. testy mc testface

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[LD50]

not sure what to say – the caching is switched off. If I can make it do the same thing here then I can look into what causes it. I’ll try leaving a post window open for a while and see if the session expires or something…

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[LD50]

testing a reply…

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