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I have a pierburg or two knocking about & some engines ā is it part of the carb? got a piccie of what Iām looking for by any chance? (the posted pic isnt showing up). you should be able to upload them here (even works from my phone in chrome).
..or wait – is this the “hedgehog” thing we’re on about?
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ok so these are the wires I have for the is controller….
I’ll need to double check but I found a matching socket for the biggest plug and think I found one for the second biggest but the single one and the stray cut black wire are a mystery to me unless I can find my gti disassembly pics…which so far I can’t.
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welcome to the site š And wow, what a cool collection you have!
You might want to post some of the bits for sale in the for sale section though: https://forum.vwsyncro.co.uk/forums/forum/buy-sell/parts-cars-for-sale/
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right, ok – well I have that box/loom etc and found where to plug it in (well it was the only plug which matched, a white one near the steering column), but there was one stray black wire on the ISV loom which I had to cut (rather than unplugging) when removing it from my old 16v GTI.
I carefully took photos of the gti stripdown but for some reason I can’t find them now, so I don’t know if it’s just an earth (though would expect that to be brown) or some special signal wire or what. So far it’s made no difference plugging the ISV controller box/loom in or not so I suspect the black wire may be important. I actually have a spare ISV controller box and a couple of spare ISVs too so it should be possible to get it working..just as soon as I solve the mystery of the black wire. If it’s to do with timing then perhaps it could also be to do with the wires going to the distributor cap so will re-check everything there. So far I’ve just plugged things in where they looked like they should go (or fitted) and it fired up.
If anyone else has a working KR/16v and could take a look that would be super handy. I get “dog-head” when I look at the wiring diagrams in the haynes manual
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there isn’t a PM solution yet but it’s next on the list of things to add and I’m sure there’s a way to add it..I just wanted to make sure the basic forum bit worked properly before adding more features and potentially making things more complicated.
There was not really a choice re upgrading..the old system wasn’t secure and it also wasn’t allowing new members to join or sending emails out reliably, but also wasn’t really compatible with modern email sending systems so the forum was literally dying.
Something had to be done and this platform is what I use for most of my websites so I’m quite familiar with working on it and it also allows uploading pics directly etc and there was a path to migrate from the one to the other without losing all the posts (which was the other option if we’d started over)…
Even if there isn’t an out-of-the-box PM plugin which works right, I can write one, so chill, it’ll happen š
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is that the box on it’s own wiring loom which goes behind the centre console? or a different one?
The lone black wire was the thing which confused me. will take pics once I’m not ill anymore.
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Don’t see why there would be a problem running the front end in 2wd mode like that, as far as I’m aware you can run a regular mk2 syncro drivetrain in 2wd mode (i.e. with prop/rear end disconnected). Would the back-end be stock 2wd (initially)?
I think you might find (g60-syncro &) rallye setups to be quite different from 4-motion systems, particularly as far as the rear diff & electronics go..e.g. 4motion/haldex might throw up issues with abs sensors etc since (as far as I know) the haldex/rear diff uses info from the abs sensors to decide what it needs to be doing…so quite what the electronics would make of that I don’t know.
(as far as I’m aware) the g60-syncro/rallye drivetrain (02c gearbox) is essentially just a mechanical system so might give you less issues, but i’m pretty sure you’d need to be running one system or the other (i.e. g60-syncro/rallye OR 4-motion/haldex), not a mix of the two.
Please someone correct me if I’m mistaken but I *think* that info is correct.
Perhaps if you give a few more details of the overall plan we could figure out a more complete answer.
hope that helps š
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Got myself a new mig torch and I’ve just finished getting the rear quarter panel properly welded up and tidied. It’s now *done*.
It’s now painted with a thick coat of electrox which will protect it till it’s ready for proper painting. pics to follow
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ah wait – that’ll need the loom for the ISV etc plugged back in too won’t it…
There was a white plug near the steering wheel which seemed to be where it should go but there was one black wire which was separate and cut which I don’t know what to do with.
I’m sure I saved a pic from the dismantling but I can’t find them :\
thanks for the info!
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right that makes sense. I just couldn’t figure how it would vary the timing from the ecu. ok then I need to figure out whether that’s doing it’s job and if not why not. At the moment it doesn’t really sound different whether connected or not though I might need to check that in a bit more detail ..e.g. thru the rev ranges, or with the gas analyser (but it’s very slow)
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So 2 of the 4 bolts fitted, I had to grind the other 2 nuts off. It wasn’t anythign I’d done wrong though, just 2 of the actual towbar holes needed tweaking by a few mm, re-welded nuts on and it all fitted nicely.
In the pics the sides are drooping a bit because I’ve not put on the plastic fittings which hold the sides aligned. REar quarter panel also hasn’t been properly welded yet, mig torch gave out halfway thru.
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today’s little project was to rip the lower valance off the front big bumper. bit more ground clearance and I think it fits the lines of the car better.
also I tested whether there was any way to fit the towbar along with the big bumper and there really looked to be no way to make it happen without modifying one or the other.
So I ended up cutting a chunk out of both the rear bumper mounts/”prongs” and welding the frame of the bumper to the towbar, then refitting the plastic bumper skin. It’s ended up quite a hefty bit of kit and good luck anyone who runs into it since the towbar is on a nice solid 40x40mm box section which sits just behind the “big bumpers” frame.
Surprisingly I only needed to cut a little section our of the plastic to let the towbar through which was a welcome bonus.
I’ve welded nuts to the topside of the towbar so I can bolt it in from the bottom but then it got dark so I don’t know if they’re in the right places. should know more tomorrow.
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