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ah I didn’t know they made one already.. hmm interesting. Do you know roughly what would need to be changed to do a TDI conversion on say a golf driver? They already have the GTI look and I would imagine there wouldn’t need to be too much changed.
Do you know what sort of management/ecu the GTD has if at all? TDIs tend to respond very well to a remap (e.g. like my audi) but I presume only if they have a computer 😉
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I’ve been doing some digging on this and I think potentially 25mm electrical conduit might be the way to go on recreating the main “wings” of the country bull bars, especially since there’s conduit benders available for not unreasonable money which look like they could potentially do bends of a suitable radius.
The “wraparound” bends would probably be too tight to bend and would need to be neatly cut and welded but the other bends look like they could be done with a bender. I’m thinking mate that to a sturdy cross-beam and vertical “nudge” bars which join the front frame arms alongside the bumper (a bit like the US cop cars) and which would extend below the bumper, either side of the sump and bolt onto the subframe much like a lower strut brace would.
I guess it could all be done with slice-n-weld but using a bender where possible should give a nicer finish.
If it’s done right it should all be nice and flush, barely reduce ground clearance, and add some sump protection too thanks to a plate bracing the two vertical struts as they head down to the sump, just like the OEM country.
Obviously I doubt the conduit parts would be quite as strong as the OEMs but in my case it’s mostly for looks and a bit of light protection, though conduit does seem to be relatively sturdy and looks to be galvanised inside and out so would be good from a rust prevention perspective.
I’m working with big bumpers on my syncro (lowest valance removed) but it should work equally well for small bumper. Will post some pics once I’ve had a play with some pipes and got something to show.
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Do you reckon the syncro box will fit with all the turbo gubbins hanging down there? looks like it would be pretty tight back there. I bet the wiring would be a lot simpler than most other engine swaps tho.
Given the fun (and mpg) I get with my audi I kinda want one of these GTD motors to experiment with but some might argue I have enough engines kicking about already so 3 more might be a bit overkill 😉
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actually – if any country owners would be willing to give me an idea of the tube dimensions and perhaps send a couple of more detailed pics of how it attaches to the front etc, I rather fancy having a go at replicating these to fit a regular syncro/golf.
I’m thinking to also extend it down to the subframe and have some sort of skid-plate to offer some protection to the sump etc too (from kerbs in my case).
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how did you get on with this?
I’m actually looking to make one of these too as I doubt the country one would fit my syncro even if I could find one. I’m looking to end up with something along these lines..
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hi El, welcome to the site… I’ve made this post sticky so that as many people see it as possible. Hope that helps 🙂
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so the rear lights being constantly on I’m so far none the wiser on. Poked around to see if i could see anything obvious (i couldn’t), unplugged all the fuses one by one to see if it was related to one of those (it wasn’t).
The main lights don’t work either and given the fusebox not making a difference I’m thinking something’s got plugged in where it shouldn’t have and it’s shorting to light the rear lights.
I also tried to trace the power starting from the rear lights but only with limited success. I guess digging into lighting harness debugging is the next stage of this..\o/
I’m interested in taking this for some light offroad/gravel/mud so at some point recently I also wound all the coilovers up a bunch to give a bit more ground clearance, more suspension travel & add some preload. With the lower-part of the front bumper removed it’s got pretty good and even clearance whilst hopefully still keeping the CoG relatively low.
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have temporarily plumbed in the +vw black to an ignition-switched lead and it seems to work fine. Will attach it permanently next time.
Engine now starts, runs and idles as you would expect a 16v to. It was hunting a bit but that seemed to be to do with the overrun valve which kept switching. Will investigate in due course but for now I disconnected the overrun valve/switch thing and it seemed to run perfectly after that.
We also now have oil temp/pressure sensors (I think)..so no more no-oil-buzzer.
I’m now waiting for a coolant temp sensor off ebay to modify my non-sensor tank. I guess I must have used my original syncro tank on one of the other golfs in the mean time.
There’s a bit of exhaust/smoke coming from somewhere near the downpipe, suspect dodgy gasket so will replace that and see if that helps.
The rear lights seem to be permanently on as soon as the battery is connected, so have yet to figure out why that is but I think there’s only that. a lick of paint and a rear brake service left to do before we could potentially start thinking about going for an mot. which is awesome.
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ok well after a bit of fiddling I actually got the ISV to buzz and guess what? it idles now 🙂
It seems like the black wire from the isv relay is some sort of positive. I would imagine switched with the ignition.
I cleaned out a couple of the ISVs with carb cleaner and that possibly helped a bit too.
Currently the black wire is just poked into a positive terminal for testing but I guess next thing is find a nice switched +ve and wire it in properly..then I *think* perhaps that may be the engine more or less running. which would be awesome.
Will have to figure out what’s next…I guess making it all the same colour would be a good step.
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ok so I think I’ve established I’m getting ignition advance from somewhere..presumably the ecu. So I *think* my “lack of ignition advance and/or ISV” problem has just been downgraded to an “ISV/idling problem”, which is sort-of progress.
Now it seems like it runs ok (with ign advance) when the idle switch (microswitch on the throttle) is not pressed, but as soon as it is pressed the engine dies. I suspect this is the behaviour you’d expect without a working ISV and my ISV doesn’t seem to buzz so I may yet be missing wires to the relay or have a faulty ISV or both..or something else. I’ve got 3 ISVs and 2 isv relay units so hopefully some combination of those will work.
I think I’ve identified most of the wires coming off the isv, apart from the random black wire, though that may be ignition on/+ve (perhaps?). I’m hoping to establish that the white/white-black wires coming off the isv relay which are supposed to go to the isv, actually DO go to the isv. But that’s a multimeter feat I haven’t managed yet.
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Been trying to figure out the wiring and this thread seemed quite helpful. I screencapped it on my iPad (attached) just in case it disappears since so many results have patchy/missing images
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=modifications-and_2%2F1-8-16v-kr-on-carbs
Still got the ISV wiring to figure out yet but have already fixed a couple of issues so am hopefully making progress..
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is this any use?
http://www.clubvw.org.au/vwvin
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was vagcat the “online etka” thing? if so it looks like there’s another one which might be of use: https://7zap.com/en/
I’m not sure of the source of mine but it was off a torrent site. I had to try a few different versions before I found one which worked but it’s reporting version 7 update 622 and appears to work fine. I don’t know how current that is but am happy to punch some numbers in and see what comes out if it’ll help.
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Hi Ant, glad you got sorted with the new forums 🙂
I don’t have experience with the roof you mention but I wondered if there might be some help in etka?
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