Hi you all.
Can someone tell how to take vc apart from diff?
Ha. Shouldn ask before even trying… It was easy.
Only needed loosen that centering nut/cap/ dont know the right word. But it wasnt very tight.
Is it worth of trying to open visco with 55mm wrench tool? Or should i use that lathe technique as in vwvortex Forum they do. Will that visco hold that 100bar pressure if cover is locked with snapspring…
Hah again. I just should stop asking things before I even have tried my self.
Ok I got my VC open, I needed a bit of leverage, I had 50cm extra length plus 40cm of socket wrench, Socket needed for this job is 55mm, Rust off is nice add to job also, it helps that metal wire thingy to move more easy.
You need to help that wire end out from that elliptic hole outer side of vc and you get the clue which way to rotate the cap to get that wire out.
Then you only need to give some leverage and that wire comes out.
Next thing you have to do is punch to the axle from the other end to get that cap off.
I will ad more photos and info on this site when i have something to share.
Today i began to clean up plates and visco itself. I need to find right cleaning solvent. I tried Ethanol and it didnt do much and then i tried motorwash, it is somekind of petroleum or so. Dont know the right word for that stuff. I worked somehow but im not statisfied with it. I think i will try that detergent which is used to remove silicone from bathrooms,sinks, ect. After all this visco stuff is silicone.
After that i have get that visco housing machined. Those three threads and inserts are damaged so bad,( pictures are in my country 1991 thread). And i need new inserts and lock rings also.
This is extremely interesting! I really look forward to seeing the innards of the VC.
Inside the VC, doesn’t the oil have to be at a very specific pressure, or something? Don’t the ‘plates’ wear in terms of their surfaces?
This is what made me to start this project, and that i have one vc and diff as spare. That vc is i question becouse it have to be machined as those mounting lugs and inserts are so badly damaged.
Plates inside vc look allright i think. That texture/ perforation ( maybe wrong word) is still there. But i dont know how unused should look , im just quesing. There were light rust also on that top plate. But this vc had a leak from broken lug/insert.
I have a source for vc fluid here.
After new threads and inserts i have to fill it with something and close it once to make one pressure test for the casing. That sae documet says something about 100bar but i dont have anything to produce pressure that high. I fi fill it with water and pressure it with lets say 10-20 Bar it should be fine… Maybe.
Ok. I cleaned all the plates today.
I used heavyduty grease remover and it worked good. I think i now know what is this wearing on plates
( that darker area is what i thik is wearing)
I bought new o ring for that cover/ cap. 122mm*3mm. If Fits nice and makes it tight. I also bought new oli seal for visco housing, it was not in vw dealers listing anymore as it is dropped now. Size is 40*52*6, i bought new one 40*52*7 and it Fits good and that contact with axle is now at different spot related to 6mm oil seal so it should be only good thing. What is hard, is to find new x rings for visco, i found ones but those were made of nitrile as originally they are polyurethane( something to do with wearing i think). Maybe PU o ring would work also.
The X-ring [/URL]
do we have a source for the o-rings needed for this “rebuild”?
and can anyone actually notice any difference when the fluid has been changed from the stock 30 000ish to 100 000?
will you have more rwd traction? or will it be “constant” binding and ruining the system?
Sorry no source yet for x ring. SKF might have right x ring for this though. I ha had no progression on this build. I bought a house sonitbhas taken my time. Will be back for this later.
V.C. Fluid on eBay
He has different weights or is it viscosity? available
click on his other items