separate the gearbox/ transfer box

[Mikes]

Hi everybody, I’m trying to get my gearbox off to fit a new clutch and the trannsfer box is in the way hitting the flywheel. How do I get the transfer box off. will oil spill every where when I do?
thanks
Mikes

[Housey]

its held on with a few long bolts (take the braket on the block/angle drive off) then its jut a matter of prying it of slowly

and yes, oil will be spilled

and another tip, get new o-rings for the reassembly, don’t cost much, but its way better then to have a leaky transmission (i found out this the hard way)

[Mikes]

I still can’t seperate the transfer box despite removing the rear drive housing & pinion gear. It feels like the shaft that has the front driveshaft flanges is still physically connected to the gearbox & it’s opposite driveshaft flange. And i don’t want to prise or wack it without knowing how it’s supposed to seperate

I took off the bolts which attach the transfer box to the gearbox and when I try to prise it apart the driveshaft flange for the front drive shafts stops it from comming away, it feels sprung, and there doesn’t appear to be any way of removing the driveshaft flange.
???????

[alexisblades]

Sounds like you could have the gearbox with the bolt-in flanges then. Prise out the black rubber cap inside the drive flange cup (if you’re careful you can re-use but they’re only pennies from VW). Then get the longest 1/4″ extension bit you can find, as you’ll need to undo the 6mm hex bolt

(fairly certain it’ll be 6mm hex – mine was, and my VW workshop manual, says it should be, but check it feels ‘right’ in there, as if you bugger this one up you’ve had it. Who knows, someone may have changed it for something else in the past)

which holds the hollow throughput shaft into the differential. I found holding it tight in there, and a tap on the wrench to shock it free worked well. Then you should be able to remove the transfer box. The springiness you can feel is behind the drive flange, but you shouldn’t need to disturb that unless you decide to change the transfer box oil seals.

edit: here’s the sequence for bolting the bevel box support bracket when you’re done (n.b. the bevel box support to bevel box bolts ‘A’ must also be set to 40Nm after the following sequence):

[Mikes]

Phew, it all came off. and I’ve got the clutch out, now just need to get a new one, and fit it.
guess it’s a trip to euro parts!
what torque would I need to do up that driveshaft bolt on the 6mm hex?
right off to the pub for a pint to celebrate!

[Mikes]

Ahhhh it’s a dual mass flywheel, is it worth fitting a new one as it’s obviously a little worn after 300,000 km or try and fit a standard flywheel and clutch?
many thanks for the help so far and any future help.
Mikes

[alexisblades]

As for the 6mm hex bolt for the flanges I’m not sure, and my manual doesn’t quote them, but the info must be out there. Most 6mm hex bolts I’ve used are around 20 Nm, so that’s what I used for mine. It would be worth looking up the torque figures for the similar bolts in the 2wd cable change boxes, as they do the same job.

DMF maybe worth changing but after 300k I’d have thought it would have gone already at least once? Which engine is it? I have a nearly new DMF with clutch kit (with all new stretch bolts for installation) which is going on Ebay fairly soon, as I decided to go for single mass on my car. Message me if you’re interested

[Author]

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