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Thanks, looking forward to tomorrow when some trinkets arrive. New genuine rear springs, country chassis bolts and a compliment of powerflex bushes!
Removed all the bushes from the trailing arms this afternoon, all came out with brute force but one with surrendered to fire..
some lovely genuine parts and powerflex goodies also turned up 😀
The rear beam bolts are made of a very hard metal, i think its going to take me quite a while to cut through them! blunted 5 blades so far!Attachments:
I thought my wife was understanding, but this just takes it to a whole level!
Are there any jobs going where you work?btw Why not make an toe in & camber adjustable rear axle when you are going this far?
I don’t know if you can see the photos? as the site is undergoing maintenance atmHa! yes a very understanding wife, i tend to stop mucking around out there when her and the kids get home. I am lucky enough to have a job that is ‘job and finish’ and im a quick worker, normally back 1.30-3pm the latest. Gives me a couple hours 😀
I have seen your topic there, im thinking about it but i dont know if ill really need it with all new powerflex bushes and what would be stock ride height?
I have done something for the front adjustment actually, replaced the top bolt on the strut with the thinner bolt VW sell to allow slightly more adjustmenti see epytec do a kit for rear camber now https://epytec.de/en/chassis/camber-adjustment-plates/2408/golf-mk2-mk3-camber-adjustment-screw-syncro
ill ask these questions here 1st, now they may be stupid, but…. MK4 rear calipers.. im scrapping my mk4 very soon, im removing a few parts to sell 1st. its a ’02 pd100, im hoping i can use the calipers from it?
Pads, do i use the Mk4 ones?
And Rallye handbrake cables, they seem to be readily available on the aftermarket. there is LH and RH part numbers, but is there actually a difference? Aftermarket has them both as the same part and etka has them both at 1600mm?
Discs, what actual gain is there from using the 12mm thick ones against the 10mm?Anyway, guess im lucky enough i can just pop out the front and remove the calipers off my mk4.. They look the right ones and fit the carriers. Gave them a clean, its nice that they are Ally so you dont have to deal with a rusty lump of iron..
Handbrake mech seems nice and free, so these will be used. Still gotta get that rear beam off (then everything can go to be blasted) but its been raining pretty hard today, so no playing outside.The Left & Right Rallye handbrake cables are identical apart from some extra heat shielding on the on (I think) the left hand one where it runs a bit close to the exhaust.
the calipers pictured should fit without problems, you could see how the mk4 pads sit on the Rallye discs I can’t remember which I used on my conversion.
the only gain with the 12mm disc is that it does not get so hot & fade as quickly as the 10mm one can.
Thanks, good news on the cables, quite cheap on the aftermarket. For pads, I’ve kept a set of the MK4 ones that I’ve just removed for that very purpose. ?
I’ll stick with the 10mm discs as this won’t be getting raced around.You will need to save the mk 4 caliper flexy pipes as the fitting are different to the Rallye calipers & Syncro drums
No, to late for that. What I am doing is having a short Flexi with the correct end for between the caliper and the 1st bracket on the trailing arm. Then solid pipe from there to the next bracket on the edge of arm. Then the normal Flexi. Vwheritage sell a Flexi specifically for this.
I regards to brake pads what do most people use MK4 or 2?yes!
I have finally got the rear beam off!!! And nothing broke! Amazing!
Chassis cover plates totally re usable 😀 Just need to get the remnents of the bushes out of the beam and its blasting time!
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