- This topic has 3 voices and 9 replies.
-
Posts
-
ace… got me ball-joint separator now and having seen how quick the brakes on my 16v gti fade I think the 280s will need to go on the syncro asap!
Starting tomorrow (thursday) weather permitting,
Job done, But I cant seem to embed the photos in the text, sometimes I am just stupid [
]Im sorry but I still dont understand how you get fotos into the text, God knows I have tried! I will have to get a grown up to do it for me
Ok its a little late but here is the photo Guide (as far as it goes)
1) Jack up car & remove wheel, You should see something like this.
2) Get someone to press the brake pedal while you remove the centre nut.
3) Slacken the flexy hydraulic pipe, then undo the 2 allen headed bolts (at the rear of the caliper inside the rubber mounting tubes) and remove the brake caliper, you can also remove the discs (if you can get the little locating screw out) if not they can remain on the hubs.
4) Hang the caliper out of the way (on the drive shaft here)
5) Slacken or remove the track rod end nut.
6) Either use joint splitters (if you have them) or slowly and carefully lower the car so the support (brick shown here but normally an axle stand is used) takes some of the weight and the track rod should jump out of its tapered housing, if not then give it a few taps with a hammer om the HUB steering arm and not on the track rod please.
7) Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the hub to the suspension leg, also remove the nut and bolt holding the hub to the lower suspension swivel and remove the hub
Remove the 3 nuts & bolts holding the lower swivel to the triangle, these swivels must be replaced as the GTI/G60 hubs use one with a greater shank diameter and they will pop out of the original smaller swivels. []
Remove the old brake caliper from its Hydraulic flexy pipe and immediatly refit the new caliper to the pipe before you lose too much brake fluid.
Fitting the new units is the reverse of the above sequence and as you will have these new items in your hands before you start the work it should be quite obvious how it all fits together. [
]btw, the usual health & safety disclaimers apply,
As in I accept no responsibility for any missing fingers etc, should you try this at home. []Just out of interest here is what your new 280mm brakes/hubs should be looking like. [}
]
Ace write-up chris – I’ll be followign that soon on my syncro hopefully
I discussed this with TC and I think he mentioned undoing the main 31mm bolt with the wheel/tyre still on the ground might be an option if there’s no brake-pusher to hand.Removing the centre nut can be done while the car is on the ground, but I had to take the wheel off to get to it, I couldnt fit the socket through the wheel centre.
Warning, I there are 2 different lower swivel diameters and the GTI/G60 uses the largest, I will post the relevant diameters later, Sorry I cant find the diameters, but I had to change the swivels to the larger size on both my 1988 and my 1989 Syncro models when I did the conversion,
btw, You wont forget to change your master cylinder to the 16v type will you? [
]I have 256 mm brakes on my Jetta 16V from the factory. When I go up to 280 mm brakes do I need to change the master cylinder?
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
