› Forums › Project Cars (contains photos) › 1990 Golf GT G60 Syncro – My heaven and my Hell
Tagged: bodywork, engine-swap, g60 syncro, golf, rotisserie
Hi Dan, Have a look in your ETKA and make sure that you have the support bracket mounted correctly,
Model – Year – MG – SG – illustration
Gosy – 1990 – 4 – 09 – 101-10
the bracket fits on the outside of the transfer box as shown
The 3 O rings are located between the transfer box/bellhousing.
going to get myself some O-rings then. should not be too hard to change while the subframe is out
think i found the leak today, don’t look like its the transmission, but from the oilpangasket. so took the oilpan down today. it used the hard composit-fibre gasket, going to get myself a new rubber one
the drops that was on the transmission didn’t smell of transmission fluid. so my guess its just motor-oil
Hmmmm.. leaking sumps.. very known on old cars.
There is even a rubber sump gasket+baffle to keep the oil @
the oilpumpnozzle when cornering hard.
Originally made for the TDI mk3 engines, but very well suitable for our
petrol 4-potter engines
VW number : 037115220B – 037 115 220 B
Ajusa1 4075800
Corteco 026315P
Elring 447.340
Elwis Royal 1056035
Febi bilstein 10906
Glaser 54361
Goetze 31-029043-00
Havam PL8240
JP Group 115067001
Klokkerholm 9521482
Nor 9521483
Payen JH5023
Reinz 71-31943-00
Swag 32 91 0906
Topran 100 714
so i should use the baffle gasket then? or? i havn’t bought the other one yet
As VW want 30 euros just for the sump gasket, I would suggest you buy the ebay baffled one (it costs about the same with the postage)
btw, VW want over 80 euros for the baffle gasket, ouch
i found the gasked on ebay.com for about 20bucks plus shipping
but, when running the baffle gasket. will i have to remove the original baffle?
-> will i have to remove the original baffle?
No original baffle-plate is in at the moment, just a plastic piece that acts
like a little baffle and sits on the end of the oilpumpnozzle.
A slight cut-up of that one might be needed with reassembly, but all is doable.
Never heared people moaning that it wouldn’t fit, afterwards…
we’ll see
well, i have ordered a new oilpan gasket, headgasket, new outer swaybar bushing kits. and the new axles should arrive shortly. and i’ve fitted the new controlarms and new inner tie rods (got a real good price on 2x lemforder controlarms. about 25€ a pop)
so. almost everything is now new in the front suspension
the “new” axles from rallye that i bought from Vegard came today so they will be cleaned and regreased and all new boots on them too
and the north-viking brake ducts came also looks good
the axles are more or less finished, only one joint left to be cleaned and regreased now
got the angledrive out today aswell. changing the O-rings between the transmission and the angledrive itself
decided to change the oil-seal on the flange aswell, and the big o-ring on the outer end, cheap parts. and smart to do when its out
Its official now….
….
i hate prop-shafts …
the steering rack has little clearance to the dough-nut
and the exhaust is in the way. ohwell. i’ll probably get it fixed by this weekend. and when i’ve done that, the car can be lowered back onto its feets for the first time in a long time
i’m starting to wonder if i should change my gear-wires..
the ones i’ve got from the passat is a bit too long. and was checking etka. and there are som different partnumbers for the wires
passat:
3A0 711 265
3A0 711 266
golf G60
1H0 711 266
1H0 711 265
the wires i’ve got now is touching both the doughnut and propshaft. grinding the plactic covering down. so it won’t last long
Can you not fasten them out of the way with ziplock ties?