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I have got problem with my golf, I’m sure its the prop, well I will explain, I can drive it forward fine but in reverse make a banging noise around middle of the prop, sure I have broken it just wanted a plan of action, like parts, what are likly to break? easy thanks
It is probably your prop shaft centre bearing, or the propshaft centre C.V. joint, I had a similar problem with my G2 Syncro last year, try driving up a steep hill and see if it happens in the forward gears?
Lucky you, as you have a 2 piece shaft so there is only 1 bearing to replacetook it to my local garage they said that it rear is getting now power.they also said its a right pain to get the prop off and they have to drop the rear sub frame and front aswell is this true and advice on how to remove the prop would be great.also where to get parts from thanks
Thats another Syncro myth as they dont have to drop any subframes at all,
The method is as follows
1) Remove catalyser and centre silencer box,
2) Remove propshaft heatshields,
3) Remove propshaft by unbolting the 2 bolts that hold the centre bearing carrier inside the tunnel and the 3 bolts at each end of propshaft that hold it and the rubber donuts onto the drive flanges! you will have to fiddle the rear out past the anti roll bar, it may be easier if you remove the centre mountings on this
The propshaft will now fall out and hit the ground unless you catch it first.
4) Replace centre bearing or C.V. joint or even both if needed
VW part nrs are,
centre bearing 1H0 521 349 and centre C.V. joint 321 498 350x
5) Refit shaft, heatshields, exhaust etc and job donewow sounds so easy lol bet that the cat is a right pain to get off so all in all how long do you think it should take and is my car safe to drive a long motorway trip to a garage or not
also is there any way of making to syncro system stonger eg stonger prop or bearings and what is the split on a syncro is it 90/10 or 80/20.can i get a lsd for front garbox and rear diff thanks
Both those questions are subjective and unanswerable,
The time for the job depends more than anything on how seized up the bolts are and how easy everything comes apart, I would think that given the right tools and everything to hand a ballpark figure would be +- 4hours or so, that time is based on 2hrs for stripping the shaft out, 1 hour for the actual repair and another hour to refit everything, again the biggest factor is how easily everything comes apart,
As to whether your car is up to a long motorway journey, only you can say, I certainly cant say never having driven or even seen your car.The power split can be anything from 95/5 to 50/50,
Peloquin make lsd units for both the front & rear diffs.would it make a big diffrence if i got the 2 diffs and would it take some strain off my drivetrain.i am running around 260bhp and 250 torque and i want to reach the 300 mark.i am trying to think of a stuff to stop whatever has happened to happen again i no i could fit the heldex system but haven got the funds for that
As the limited slip differentials have a recommended retail price of 975 us dollars each they are also not a cheap option.
http://www.peloquins.com/products.html
so whats my gearbox code and diff code how much better will my car run with them yeah i have got some picshttp://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?107148 also i want to get some coilovers for her but heard something about rear camber is bad and wears tyres for fun that dont sound cool and where can i get arb from front and rear are they the same as a normal fwd mk3 vr6
http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?107148Gearbox code is 02C/CSR, rear diff CSS
Your rear roll bar is ther smaller 18.5mm diameter one, a nice upgrade is to fit the Rallye 20mm bar, while it does nothing to compensate the camber it does stiffen the back end up a treat,
p/n 357 511 409D you will also need the larger mounting rubbers.
btw, fitting the front or both limited slip diff(s) will actually increase the strain on your drivetrain as the wheels are less likely to spin and spinning acts as a sort of safety valve getting rid of the excess power by smoking and warming up the tyres.what about the front one.how much strain will it add and how would it drive with them added also i want to lower her whats out there would prefer coilovers.have you clicked on my link and seen my car.thanks
The front one would add far far to much strain and is to be avoided at all costs, it would make your car handle like a motorised bathtub, but if you still want to fit one (or even two) please dont let me or my limited knowledge stop you,
As for lowering, I would suggest an Elephant or possibly a Rhino sat on the back seat, this should lower it considerably and should suit you quite well, it will also provide a good counterbalance for the VR6 lump you have in the front [}
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btw I have clicked on your link, but it came back as images disabled [:o)]you have to be a member sorry would post all my pics but my other post has a lot of pics would be quicker to make a new account sorry.so dont change the front arb and put a rallye 20mm arb on the rear and it will handle better.and if i fit the 2 new peloquins lsd front and rear it will make my drive train more likly to break.i dont think putting a elephant or rhino would work lol just want it to be a bit lower and stiffer.any advice looked a k&w varaint 1,2,3’s but whats the point when as soon as i go past 30mm drop my camber is way out.
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