[pvl]

02C = 02A = plenty stuff for :

ASD from a Passat 16v has the .71 5th gearing
CHA from passat TDI also has the .71 5th gearing

ASD&CHA:

pos 38 – 02A311361M Z=33/46 – €87,58
pos 40 – 02A311158R Z=33/46 – €139,83

Check with Chris to verify this stuff. This should give you a very low 5th
which the g60 supports perfectly. Torque enough.

[pvl]

This is not going to be cheap… But i can assure you, it’s worth it :

TDI 5th gear

Have to do some research for numbers.

[pvl]

Yippeey

Time to get going on stuff again.
Luckily all came in today.

Have fun, installing them !

Byebye

[pvl]

Hmmm looking good, Dan.

Getting there…

And thanks to Jonathan for the brackets

Due to some misunderstandments, they still arrived. Hurray [8D]

The fan-combo looks nice, but i hope this works in summer as well.
Pull-type fans are the ones most perferrable, but this should also
work. Perhaps a bigger one on the right can do even more magic.

Hopefully the g-charger isn’t warmed up too much by the fan on the left.

Anyways. following the thread and hopefully new good news soon.

Paz

[pvl]

Hi Trev,

You may email me at : pvlg60@gmail.com

I always have proper G-spares at hand.
all parts are available.

I can also supply info on how to properly
inspect the complete charger, as mostly there’s more
at stake than at first sight ….

I’m awaiting your email.

Greetings,

Pascal

[pvl]

Hi,

Thats no probs,

I’ll need some extra details, to help you out properly.

First i want to know which colour of injectors the engine currently has. Look with a flashlight inbetween the intake-collector
and the rockercover to see if they are grey or green.

Is there indeed a intercooler installed? Perhaps some pictures from under the hood will be more revealing.

A performance-chip is also possible for the original pulley. This will bring it to app. 180bhp with no extra fuel-consumption
when driving normally. But it just drives a bit better.

You may email me at : pvlg60@gmail.com

Thanks,

Pascal

[pvl]

Hi Trev,

Is it possible to measure your pulley up again, as i described from top of the upstanding teeth in the middle of the pulley to the other side of the
upstanding teeth of the pulley,while the belt is off it ? Because thats the only way to get a proper diameter readout.

If you now already measure 66mm, that will clearly not get any bigger than a 65mm or even a 62mm pulley. These pulley-sizes take the
g60-charger over it’s normal limits. This is only for low revs/hi-boost applications. Lower than 6750-7000 rpm max !!!!
for standard internal stuff.

Not to mention the crap that uk-overhaulers call ‘oem’ or oem+’ put in. Let them explain with clear facts on paper, WHY their oem+
stuff is better than the specially designed volkswagen parts that arent for sale at the dealer [] They can’t.
And to be honest, their parts are worse than originally used. They wear out your charger much sooner than the original vw-parts do.

So if you want to preserve your g-charger, i HIGHLY recommend a bigger pulley. A DECENT service, and ofcourse some proper software to go
with that, dialled in to YOUR engine.

Superchips, is just a generic software-producer that only change a few bits here and there in the chip, and in combination with small pulleys,
you’ll run the risk, when the g-charger is in very good condition that you’ll run lean and burn some pistons.

According to this website (http://www.segilu.com/Summer2001/bhp2000/Vw/vwturbo.htm), your chip is made for a vw g60-computer, using the
7246 ending in the bosch-chip-number. To be more specific, it’s boschnumber : 1267357246 (the actual original chip).
Do a google-search on this one, and be amazed, that ONLY corrado’s use this base-chip. Therefore i can safely report to you, that if you don’t
have aircon, you’re missing out on performance, as this chip is for a car with a SMALL intercooler like the golf-g60-aircon or a corrado/passat.

This chip looks great, as of the name presumes, to let you believe it’s the ultimate chip for any g60. But due to multiple car-configurations, 5-10bhp
can be obtained easily, plus some extra torque, due to the fact that cars that have larger intercoolers, can run a bit more ignition pre-advance.

I would recommend a better way, of tuning cars, and use a chip which was written for the car, as a base, and then tune it for all things that
are done to the engine. Camshafts, ported charger, higher compression, bigger bore, different exhaust, all comes into play when dialing in
a car near perfection as of software.

Could you be so kind, to also let me know what mods/options your golf has? Aircon (one of the options perhaps) is very important to state,
as that intercooler (just described) plays a major role. (robs 10bhp, tuned).

Hope to help you out a bit more, and am looking forward to your reply,

Pascal

[pvl]

Hi Trev,

A recap of your questions :

1. Don’t know what size of a pulley is on my charger. -> Get a ruling caliper and measure one of the five upstanding ribs in the middle where the belt runs on, on the outer diameter of it.
2. Theres a superchip chip fitted to the ECU so I imagine its been upgraded -> Generic modchip. What number does it state on the sticker ?
3. Where do you measure the pulley from -> Pick one of the 5 ribs in the middle and measure the outside diameter of one.
4. Would anyone have a standard chip and pulley for sale -> Have a couple of them over here, if interested. Chips are also selectable. Have a huge library of original and tuned ones.

A original pulley is giving me 79.3 millimeters as of diameter on the outer-ribs where the serpentinebelt runs. Measure up yours and report back please.

A 68mm (max semi-safe pulley to use up to 7000rpm) pulley, measures at the outer ribs in the middle 68mm. Checked it over here.

Hope this helps a bit

Greetings,

Pvl

[pvl]

Dutch translation for Bouncy Castle :

Hobbelend Kasteel

Those engines will appreciate ‘breathing-updates’ and a
chip accompanying the breathingmods….

Pascal

[pvl]

I think we need some enginespecs. Then i can correctly interpret things.
Please provide : brand, year, engine-code, modifications to it.

My friend tunes for JD, and has some knowledge of these items… as he also has vag-com. So i can ask him or via him what this problem is abouth. He said that all sport-airfilter that are pre-oiled give lots of problems with the MAF’s. the oil vapourises when there is moist in the air (especially when it’s raining) and the oil is creating a film on the hotwire, and the hotwire burns and gives less readout than in good condition. Perhaps thats the problem …

Greetings,

Pascal

[pvl]

It’s always nice to get some thanks about helping out people who quickly need software for their project.

We’d tried to help out as much as possible, but i guess that was not sufficient for this project.

Normally when a dynoplot is posted, the dyno-place and the owner’s car’s plate are stated.. non whatsoever on this plot. Very strange.

Digifant 1 and 2 are more than capable of handling the hardware which is inside most cars. If some don’t agree, then write to volkswagen and say you can do better with a stand-alone management, concerning all aspects the ecu handles.

A proper on-the-car-adjustment will do magic. And don’t forget, 8v and 16v engines don’t really like to rev over 7000rpm for max performance. This is exactly where you want to be with a golf syncro. Low revs and high torque.

Due to some other factors with the project (f.e. time) the outcome was not mindblowing, but still satisfying if we read other posts on other websites, by the owner of this specific car.

Expecting 150-160bhp out of the box of a trial and error project isn’t fair to expect, crankpower is indeed in that figure in.
This will come in time, if the software is adjusted to the engine. The power is indeed available, only a real-time-eprom-emulator+rolling road will get it to the expected power figure. Even on digifant 2.

This is the only way of configuring these kinds of engine-projects. As you where quite HASTY to get things sorted before the trackdays, I’d quickly selected a SAFE chip, which did magic to a 1.9 cabriolet over here with g60 green injectors. So don’t write-off the hardware instantly, as it’s still very useable. It’s all software where the problems lay…

Even with Megasquirt you’ll be adjusting it for a while, as no base-map that is already 90% is there to start with. Don’t think you’ll be at 100% performance within 2 days of adjustment on the road.

Remember, vw-motorsport got their rallyegolf on digi-1 to 300bhp..
Quite a astonishing level of power. Digi-2 is a little brother of that first development. So when everything is mastered, and time was not such an issue, then a better performing engine was there.

If you ask a professional chiptuner to write software for your car, like Steve of Pitstop development, or JD out of holland, I don’t think this story was here.

They can dial in digi 1 and digi 2, only the’re quite busy guys… so an appointment within a few weeks is an issue

I’d like to see the results from that engine on throttlebodies and megasquirt… tb’s don’t unleash that much more bhp’s. Mostly it’s all abouth timing. Fuel and ignition. Add info abouth the rolling road facility also, plus some pictures. That would be nice….

And remember, a 1050+ kg. car needs torque from low down.. This is where 8v’s stand out against 16v’s (abf-standard-cams do not really get it better going than 8v mild cams low down). If there was a compressor on it, it would be even more interesting. then a awesome powerpackage is there. New problems will then be encountered… The drivetrain…

Volkswagen motorsport also used a 8v engine in their werks-rallyegolfs (also syncro, but with BEEFY diffs and titanium centershafts) and they had no problem with low-down and mid-range torque.

Pascal

[pvl]

Emm.. Jason… Be sure Gwerks put GOOD materials into your charger… i’ve found lots of unwanted inferiour stuff in Mark White’s charger a few months ago..
He had his charger also been overhauled by them… of pitstop dev…. (they work together)

One oilseal was almost popping out… Luckily Mark was still on a original pulley so no big oil pressure-burst pushed it out. I opened up Mark’s charger when he was at my
place previous year… a very nice visit, and a supurb running car afterwards…

B.t.w. who did your mapping ?? I saw there is a 20V under the hood… nice !!!! only is it also cam-adjusted via the ecu ? (thats 15-20 bhp gain) over here we also had
such a project… with a g-charger+GT35 TURBO… Dutch master JD was at work on this one (his buddy Roy Koenen got a special treatment from JD on the rollers … (owner of this blue piece of engineering… JD-Engineer !)

Be sure to Check these out :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbU0tNohz54

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxVvABL0Yng

Here’s the tech-part of this one :

All special stuff is made by roy… and friends of him.

If you want to see some hefty projectpics of this 4×4 G60-20v-GT35 , check this out :

http://vwteampg.xsbb.nl/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=290769

Don’t mind the dutch… just watch the pictures AMAAAAZING project !!

Byebye !

[pvl]

Hi,

Well to be honest… i like the novelty of the product.
Only there’s one catch… lubrication of the charger.
Vw did a stunning job of getting everything ‘recycled’.
For emissions that was a good thing. Now we have a charger
which is having no return oil sump breather and warm boosted
air return. The first is negative, especially with old model
chargers which incorporate the old apex seals that have bronze into
them, mixed with teflon. You will then get a worn out scroll/displacer within 3-4 months… because of the non-lube situation. I’m told by a very well known tuner/overhauler over here… so i’ll take his knowledge for granted . The newer apex seals are completely of plastics, and also wear out quicker with the non-lube situation… i’d think i’d inform you….. Warned people can make their mind up abouth ‘tuning-measurements)

There is a solution. reroute the carterbreather from the top of the
cyl.head.cover with a t-piece into the 2nd intakepipe. This ensures a
bit of lube, and is not harmfull at all, since it’s also originally introduced into the 2nd inlet.

Have a nice day, and check that charger once a while. If not sure, i
can help out…

Greetings,

Pascal

[pvl]

thats no prob… we’ll iron it out it can’t be anything big.. not hearing very unwanted noises…
Cam-belt-tentioner new ? Not been overtightened ?

Cam-wheel any unbalance ?

Seeing already some wearmarks on the cambelt ? (on the side, on the inside)

Can you post some pictures from the side that we can see the belts clearly..
And also the multibelt.

[pvl]

Your belt, at the intermediate-shaftpulley is touching plate 15….
Saw this happening with more 16v’s… doublecheck the bolt/nut from the
waterpump… it interlocks that plate… forgotten to fit perhaps ?
Now the plate is loose and hitting the cambelt… and it squeeks…

To check : undo part 4 (i know.. thats not easy…) and
get a little screwdriver… start engine, push metal plate towards
the engineblock and if the sqealing is gone… you’ve found your
problem…..

Greetings,

Pascal

[Author]

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