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I know what you mean, but I’d love to see the faces of the drifting crowd if you did it in a golf! especially when you open the bonnet and show them a transverse engine layout.[
]If you want rear wheel drive, remove the front driveshafts, drive it and wait for the viscous unit to die. then remove that, fit some sort of spacer in its place then wait to see how long the rear diff lasts.
I never known anyone do this, it should work in theory, it would be interesting to see how things lasted.
to see a golf in a rear end power slide in the wet would be something i’d love to see.
if you do it please video it!
All I need is the unit on the diff with the motor/actuator and temp sender. I have read a couple of the VW self study documents about the Haldex diff, one shows the actuator as a motor, another shows it as a solenoid, so I need to see one to finally work out once and for all what type it is.
I have a couple of guys offering the bits to help me and then to trial the controller. I should be able to get started on it quite soon.mike
Just re-reading this and had a thought assuming things havn’t changed…if your (wife’s) polo has a Lambda sensor, disconnect it and take it for a run.
With the Lambda disconnected the ECU will still run the engine but in a safer mode which should mean running it rich….!!!
the downside is it might back off the ignition advance as well losing performance!! worth a try maybe?other than that get it checked by VAG or with a reader, the Lambda might well be knackered, telling lies and making the mixture weaker than it should be.
mike
I have been asked to expand on a couple of things that I hope will give a more complete picture of VAG Syncro/Quattro transmissions.
Audi Quattro Transmission
As far as I can find out this transmission system came in 2 variants. The best was a transmission system using Torsen Limited Slip Differentials on each axle and also as a centre differential.
The 2nd variant used conventional axle differentials with a Torsen centre differential
The TORque SENsing differential is based on gear wheels to limit the amount of slip and although being very strong and quick acting, they do have a minor disadvantage, they can only pass 80% of the power applied to them.
A VC unit when fully locked will pass 100% of the power applied.Syncro Viscous Coupling repairs.
Every now and then a question is asked on the Syncro site about repairing or “topping up” a VC unit.
At this time there is no means of being able to repair a VC unit.
The fluid is not available, nor is the spec of the fluid known, and lastly the amount of fluid in the VC unit is an exact amount. The quantity and type of fluid in the VC unit determines its “locking” characteristics.
If they show any sign of leaking, get a replacement.A quick check on ETKA shows that a VC unit is not a “exchange” item so even VAG do not repair them.
Hi, I suppose the first question is how much power are you going to run? up to 250BHP the Rallye gearbox and drivetrain will last quite well unless you do lots of 0-60 times or traffic light GP’s.
Over 250BHP then go to Haldex, for any chance of any reliabilty.
do a search on Haldex conversions on here and vw vortex to see what is involved in such a conversion. Do make sure you do the brakes and suspension at the same time. Standard syncro brakes and 20vt power is not a good mix. good luck.mike
LD50,
I know you know lots of things, I love your dedication but if all you have done is fitted the subframe…please please take it off and start again, it’s so much easier. if you do it your way you will have to lift the engine up, out, up, back, all occations when you might damage the paint. the only benefit to doing it your way is you are able to connect up the steering rack easy.
if you start having problems stop…take it all out and try the way I do it. connect up the steering arms, the driveshafts and exhaust downpipe.
please try it……come on someone back me up or tell me I’m talking cack[
]mike
Well done on the compressor, the little one I use for pumping up my tyres ( no good for anything else) wakes up the entire neighbourhood!
Sorry if I’ve missed something… re fitting your engine.
have you tried…engine bolted to gearbox etc and attached to subframe with bottom arms and struts fitted. car on axle stands.
rope round engine and gearbox, balanced on engine crane. lower engine/subframe to rest on legs of engine crane, move everything under car, tuck in struts and jack the whole engine/subframe up into bay. jobs a good un. done it this way loads of times, easier with 2 but done it on my own, take it slow, no scratches or anything.mike
Sorry Danny. now all I’ve got is a picture in my head of a guy in a 2nd world war submarine film, headphones on listening hard…………ping……ping……pong hahaha
mike
Hi ChrisP, the carriers bolt straight onto the Rallye struts and line up with the disks no problem, I will try to weigh them in the next day or so and give you a price for delivery.
I’m in Dover Kent. so couldn’t be further away from the rest of the UK!!cheers Mike
What happened there then…why all the big space?
Final thought..people pay £100’s on extra’s to get their cars to perform better. best bang for buck in a country mile (Country [
][]) is a rolling road session with someone who knows what they are doing. Max cost is about £80 + fuel and your engine will never have run so well!Melting things is not the best way of finding out your ignition is a bit too far advanced!!!
the principle is sound enough though []anyway HH what are you going to do about your ECU?
