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If it’s of any use, I’m using 5W40 Mobil here in Finland with no bother at all – 10W40 gave a difficult start-up on cold mornings.
Isn’t there one of these syncro mounts with only three bolt fixings? to avoid possible clearance issues with the cv boot? I think that may be the rallye part if it is.
Is this the aluminium part that bolts to the rear of the block? If so then yes, it’s to give clearance for the CV joint/boot on the syncro models. I think the rallye may be different yet again from the rod-change gearbox syncro, but I use a rod-change mount with cable change and no clearance probs so far.
Try http://www.rosten-performance.com/ as they do a diamond-impregnated friction shim for just such a problem:
A couple of cable ties onto the gearbox fixed it for me, same problem with passat cables being too long.
Hi G19, is it the front or rear that you’re after? Front can come from various 2wd VWs but the rear is syncro-specific.
I have a Rallye rear ARB, bought last year. It has some surface rust but is otherwise fine, I didn’t fit it because I couldn’t get hold of the correct mounting rubbers (some confusion at my local VW dealer). Then I left the country, so it’s still in the shed at my mum’s house near Coventry.
Pricewise, I’d just like what I paid back, Which was £75. No longer available new, although you can still get the thinner (18.5mm) standard syncro bar, and the thicker (25mm iirc) passat syncro bar from http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de for 77euros and 115 euros respectively. I can arrange postage if you need it, at cost.
It’s going to change idle speed if you pump the brakes continuously. What happens is, the engine sucks air from both sides of the brake servo diaphragm. When you press the pedal, it allows air into one side, thus leaving vacuum on the other side. The resulting pressure difference is what provides the braking assistance. Continuously pressing the brakes means you’re effectively creating a continuous vacuum leak into the engine, which would under normal occasional use of the brakes be only an occasional leak.
Note that an engine with an ecu which uses a manifold pressure sensor to determine engine load should be able to add fuel to match the extra air which is entering the engine, so you won’t run lean. With a carb this isn’t the case, you will run very slightly lean just after you operate the brakes each time. If the car runs better when you’re continuously pumping the brakes, it could indicate that you should get your idle mixture/speed checked and/or adjusted.
Sorry I can’t remmember exactly what I did, but it made it a whole load easier to engage the UJ splines. Try taking the steering wheel off, then undoing the allen/hex bolt holding the steering lock to the dash mounting, should give you a lot more free play, to avoid damage to the splines.
it is possible to recondition the hydro tappets by disassembling them and cleaning them out, although i’ve not done this myself.
http://clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76499
quote:
Originally posted by Chris Squote:
Originally posted by alexisbladeshave a look on the clubgti website, there’s a good guy on there who did my head, recon plus port and polish for not a huge amount of money. he’ll know how workable the GU head is compared to the PB.
Do you know his name/contact details please?
it’s a members’ only deal i’m afraid, you’d have to join up to get his details from one of the mods. i have met him, but he prefers to be contacted through the club. very experienced chap though, a real craftsman.
apparently the PB head can have problems with corrosion which may need welding to rectify, so give it a good examination for any pitting on the gasket surface, particularly around the fire rings. i used an early mk2/late mk1 solid tappet head (EV engine code) as the ports are easier to modify (the hydraulic tappet heads have bulges due to the extra bulk of the tappet).
if the GU inlets are smaller than those on the gti head then i wouldn’t bother with it, as fitting larger inlets will rack up 200 quid or so before you’ve even looked at the ports.
ps if i was doing it again, i’d think about one of these:
especially for a carb car, as the carb would no longer be sitting right on top of the exhaust manifold. exhaust manifold is the same fitting as the mk2.
