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FOUND SOME
P/N WHT 001 682 formerly 4F0 501 337 and its M12 x 1.5 x 115mm
P/N WHT 000 708 domed nut
P/N 4F0 501 389C for the adjuster piece that sits under the nut
After looking at the picture the head seems to be central to the shank its almost as if it just has a fixed eccentric washer fitted almost like so you could dial in the camber and the under nut washer at the other end looks the same,Big thanks to Ronan for that exellent bit of info [8D]
I have just E-mailed my VW dealer and order them, I will post photos as soon as I have my hot sticky little mitts on them.
What a fortunate time to have a newly rebuilt (almost finished) rear axle on the workbench [
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Now if only I can get out of my bedroom and get into my shed
instead of getting out of my bedroom and into the hospital every few days, I would be eternally grateful. [
]Well I dont have the parts yet as they have to come from Germany, (They should be here on Monday or Tuesday)
But I do have the prices,P/N WHT 001 682 M12 x 1.5 x 115mm bolt – 5.86 euros each
P/N WHT 000 708 Domed nut
1.02 euros each
P/N 4F0 501 389C Nut adjuster piece
4.33 euros eachAnd at 11.21 euros per set (2 or possibly 4 sets needed) that is a lot cheaper than the offset bushes at about 50 to 60 euros each
To use these bolts, you will need to slot the rear arm mounting holes in the rear beam and then weld on some steel plates for the eccentric cam of the new bolts to react against. This can be two parallel bars or a custom machined 1- piece plate. The plate is the better method.
The camber is adjusted at the inner bushing (vertical slots in rear beam) and toe-in is adjusted at the outer bushing (horizontal slot in rear beam)
I just received 2 pairs of the offset bolts from the dealers, but unfortunately the photo section is down atm so I will try to post the photos later
Mine will arrive in a day or 2. Funny thing is that the part numbers I found were not the same as what you listed, even though the dimensions/descriptions were. It will be interesting to see if the parts are the same.
I just measured them and there is 11 millimeters of adjustment from 1 way up to the other, you will see what I mean when the photos are posted.
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Mine will arrive in a day or 2. Funny thing is that the part numbers I found were not the same as what you listedWhat is part numbers you have? Mine ETKA don´t understand those part numbers that Chris listed.
My part numbers came from the latest 2007 version of ETKA, Cough, Cough, ‘the one at the VW dealers’ and are from the rear suspension of the 2006 Audi A6Q
Just out of interest Les in Canada got these part numbers from his source
8E0 501 387B Eccentric Bolt
4B0 501 385 Eccentric Washer
N 906 350 01 NutHere are some of the pictures
And you will find more pictures here
http://www2.plus8.net/jpegstore/uk/vwsyncro_chriss/p_thumbnails.asp?archive=Technical+info&page=1&strSearch=&pass_view=Does anyone know what the maximum adjustment (from the standard camber) the offset bush will accomodate? I dont think that there can be 11mm of adjustment, which is what you get with only 1 set of the offset bolts,
And if you ensure that the slot for the bolt to move up and down in is vertical then I dont think that it will alter the toe in? I’m not 100?% sure on that perhaps maybe Les or someone can say for sure,
I cant wait to get my (new) rear axle modded to fit these bolts, at least it is still on my workbench and not mounted under the car yet, I am also quite pleased I only gave the wishbone a couple of coats of Hammerite and didnt get it powder coated, phew.A while back I was told by Todd at http://www.hyperformance.ca/ that he was only able to achieve 0.5 degrees of Camber corection with the offset bushes. Lowered Syncros have over 1 deg of neg camber, so the bushes are useless. I’ll try to dig up his comments to see if he provided any other details.
An issue that is often overlooked is that the Syncro rear suspension is designed to provide more toe-out as the car is lowered. This is why some have recommemnded using the eccentric bolt adjusters on all 4 bushings using the slotting guidelines I stated earlier.
As soon as I have my eccentric bolts in hand, i’ll be fiddling with my rear beam to see how the alignment is affected. I’ll try to develop some sort of chart or graph to indicate the relation between toe and camber as the car is lowered, with the goal of determining how much adjustment is needed at each bushing to bring the alignment back to spec. (something I’ve wanted to do for a long time [
])Edited to read “toe-out as the car is lowered” – Les
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Originally posted by 1.8TsyncroB3As soon as I have my eccentric bolts in hand, i’ll be fiddling with my rear beam to see how the alignment is affected. I’ll try to develop some sort of chart or graph to indicate the relation between toe and camber as the car is lowered, with the goal of determining how much adjustment is needed at each bushing to bring the alignment back to spec. (something I’ve wanted to do for a long time [
])If you would please Les that would be so helpful for everyone. [
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