hi, got your message. on testing my freewheel lock/vc/4wd these were the pin outs on the relay base.(at least on mine)
Black = perm live
Black/blue trace =switch live out to freewheel actuator
White and green/blue = latching wires from the reverse switch
using a multimeter will let you know whether the reverse switch on the gearbox works. Another way is select reverse then come out and go to 5th gear, you should hear/feel the relay click.
i do have a few rear diff, vc set ups. i do have a failed rear actuator sitting here(filled with gearbox oil) where that little lever is fine, you can have that for the cost of posting if you like? take care of the rubber boot, obsolete part…
VC’s i do have a few, but only one spare 25mm version which i want to keep. i have a couple 22mm versions which can be used if the rubber donut spigots are changed (have a search on here for that) BUT, non of them are tested. no idea if they work
Thanks for the reply, Reverse switch reassembled, should work tested it using multimeter. Going back to car to install and see what heppens (=
Very kind offer from you, I accept but cause these are getting to are very rare parts, I also want to pay part itself, not just delivery. Also willing to buy whole failed rear actuator with lever if you are willing to sell, just in case if some other part can be/need to be used as well.
Should we continue this via Private messaging?
sure, message me
the actuator actually worked fine, i was just getting oil in the vac pipes
I found the files I was looking for, here you go
Thanks again, those are going to be very useful files later when placing parts back to car !
I also figured out Freewheel electrical problem, root cause was inside the Reverse switch, I open it, clean and assembled back, ta daa, information between switch, relay and rear diff control solenoid is working now.
In the meanwhile have been producing Cover plates, original ones are end of life, new ones from Classic parts + delivery too expensive so decided to produce byself.
Nice sheet work!
nice job on the cover plates
Just came back from mini vacation, tomorrow is then time to remove engine, at least try it, it’s few decades since I have removed any car engine previously, let’s see if old man still can handle it (=
removing the engine on mine was the 1st time ive ever done an engine removal. Really easy!the whole front end comes off
Engine and gearbox is finally out, it was a real full day fight, Country almost won, but only almost (=
Originally my plan was to remove engine first, gearbox later. I tried half day without success, all bolts were removed but I didn’t just get engine and gearbox separated. So I changed plan and assembled flywheel housing bolts back, removed propellershaft and driveshaft bolts and removed with gearbox, this worked out better, only gearbox support mount bolt cut off and caused more grey hair. Is it even theoretically possible to remove Engine only, it looks like gearbox ngle gear for rear drive or what might be real name for it , is blocking this possibility???
I just noticed I didn’t mark those white air lines where they are connected so when placing engine back those need to be figured out, but this is later then.
Thanks Chris again about the very useful link for vacuum lines !!
I have also some progress on my Engine teardown even no hurry, winter is long and plenty of time to make it great again (=
Guys, do you know what could be 1P engine the tolerance limit for clearance between a piston and cylinder wall? I need to figure out if simple piston rings renewal + honing is enough, as said this engine has 301 000km.
Pressures where suprising good when tested those earlier in summer time, but for cylinder nr.1 in other level than for the rest 3 cylinders. Engine was noisy right after start for some time and then get better when warming up. There was a broken hydraulic valve rocket at the cylinder nr.1 exhaust valve which caused clacking noise.
This might help?
the DX block is the same as the 1P