Moderator

This is an item Les posted on his Canadian based Syncro website, I e-mailed and asked Les if we could publish it on here? here is his reply, []

Chris,

I absolutely and fully permit you to post ANY of my technical babblings as reference for the more technically challenged.
If any of my posts can help advance a project, or save someone from making a costly error, then I’m happy!
This is one of the reasons why I enjoy our two Syncro groups! I like to feel like I’ve helped somehow.
I just wish I had more time to dedicate to our forums.

Les []

And here is the blow by blow account itself.

Here is what I do when removing the transmission / angle drive:
Raise car and support on 4 stands, leave enough room to work around sub-frame.
Drain transmission & angle drive oil, Remove Catalytic Converters
Support engine from above (I use a home made cross beam that sits on the inner fender flanges) (Engine/Tranny needs to be supported at both ends to maintain balance)
Remove 2 bolts from rear engine mount where it attaches to sub-frame (2 angled bolts on passenger side), Remove 1 bolt from rear transmission mount (under master cylinder)
Slightly raise engine while leaving front mount connected, Loosen 4 rack & pinion (R&P) mount bolts and remove nuts and mount brackets (u-clamp and heat shield) (bolts remain in sub-frame)
Remove front outer CVJ nuts., Separate suspension struts from suspension arms at ball joints.
Support sub-frame and remove the 6 mounting bolts. Slowly lower sub-frame until clear of R&P.
Remove 6 bolts at each inner CVJ and remove both front axles. (only RH axle if only removing angle drive)
Remove fwd section of Center driveshaft (6 bolts at CVJ and 3 bolts at rubber flex coupling. (lower rear of shaft and slide rearwards to remove)
Remove angle drive, Remove clutch slave cylinder, shifter linkage, & Speedo cable, Remove starter motor & rear transmission mount brackets.
Remove Transmission mounting bolts (don’t forget the small bolts next to the oil pan) (leave one top bolt loosely installed to secure tranny)
Lower transmission end of engine a few inches to give more room for removal, Support and remove transmission.
The above method leaves the R&P installed in the car. It usually will remain supported by the tie rods and steering shaft. You might need to provide additional support with some wire or coat hangers.
I also do not remove the front engine mount as it helps to stabilize / locate the engine while the sub frame is out.
*** Make sure that you have supported the engine very well as there is not much supporting it once the sub-frame is removed!***
The R&P mounting bolts may be seized in the sub frame, making the job more difficult. You can still remove the nuts from the top side, but it is harder to do. If you break a bolt, it can be removed with a punch and a hammer. You might need to beat the **** out of it to get them out, but it can be done.
I am sure that others will have varying methods. I encourage comments and suggestions that might help make the job easier.

Les