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Tagged: mk2 golf syncro gti conversion
I have to put mine almost in 5th to disengage the freewheel
Thanks for this Chris, I’ll have a go at all of these things this evening. Its great having folk like you with all the knowledge! I sometimes wonder what we would do without you! Very much appreciated indeed. I’ll let you know how I get on!
Hooray She moves! Totally over the moon that it turned out to be something minor…. and not a drive train issue! Turns out the front G60 callipers were seized solid. We managed to free them up enough to test everything as Chris suggested, however they quickly seized up again once we drove round the yard a few times. Topran do replacements for about Β£40/side unless anybody has any other ideas to go on the front?
Now that everything syncro related works, i can concentrate on the niggly jobs like trying to adjust the gear linkage to reduce the throw on the gear change. any suggestions/advice with this? is there a short change type mod that anybody is aware of or is it just a case of ‘tinkering’ with the mechanism?
Also now everything works in principle, i can do a proper service on the engine. Definitely big progress! I love the fact wit these digifant engines cars you can chuck some fuel in, new plugs and leads and they start on the button after 10 years of being sat there.
You need one of these, it makes it very simple to adjust the linkage
https://www.vwheritage.com/wc711164-tool-for-adjusting-the-gearshift-linkage-vw-spare
Hi Chris, I’m running an ASU Rallye box (I think) which is cable linkage, but with the manual clutch actuator fitted. The cable linkage is form a golf Corrado (I think) is there an optimum combination to get the best gear change? And does this tool still help?
No, unfortunately not this is only for the rodchange box & not the cablechange
MOT β
No advisories… which was surprising, but awsome! Drove a few short journey, thee is some rotational grinding that sounds like it is coming from the prop shaft, hoping itβs just the heat shielding that protects from the exhaust but will have to investigate.
Congrats! i had a similar noise, from a similar area. Then my prop fell off! π check all the bolts are in between prop and angle drive rubber disc
Cheers Lloydy. Fortunately was heat shield rattling. Have temporarily removed it. Exhaust is starting to blow a little now as I thought it would… so basically needs a big wad of dollar spent on a custom exhaust. Unless anybody has a solution for a right hand drive? (I have a Rallye manifold, but i fear even this is useless, as it is angled towards the steering rack)
great when its a cheap fix isnt it! I the rhd syncro downpipe obsoletethen?
Cheers dude. its holding out so far… still not daily runner worthy… but that is the aim once i have solved all the knocks and clunks! (If i ever will)
I was feeling brave and drove car to work today. Clunks got progressively worse over the 20 mile journey. Managed to get to work, and dropped car at garage opposite. Paul the mechanic stuck it on the ramps and we noticed that the entire subframe was loose. All the bolts needed a good tighten. Did this then went for a test drive… this fell off when I was driving down the road today, I hered it ping as I booted it so stopped and had a look! Prop-shaft bolt obviously… managed to limp back to garage, and got them all tightened back up again! Got away with that today! I feel like I have dodged a bullet. Drove home like a dream…?
see, told ya! π
it dont half make a racket when the prop falls off! Glad you found it before dropped.
You were right… & i got away with it this time….