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i have a question for you actually, the powerflex trailing arm bushes, they come with 4 washers made out of the same purple material. Where did you put those? no idea where they are meant to go, so ive left them out for now. Did you fit them?
(have replied to you guide pin question, its on page one )Cheers for the info Lloydy. I ‘ll get a set of those from E-bay. Re- the wishbone bushes- they confused me at first, but when i offered them up to the Axle it made sense. Basically they are shims to ensure a good fit. I ended up using 2 on one side and 1 on the other.
Thanks for that, mine seem to be pretty tight without them in. I’ll see what is like when it’s fitted and everything is in its proper place.
I’ve just been out and picked up the MK4 carrier bolts and chopped 3mm off the end. Fit perfect and proper thread engagement, so I can sleep easy now ?
Here’s a pic of the MK2 ones and the cut down MK4.Attachments:
@Lloydy – if you are still keene to sell your calliper/carrier bolts then I’ll take them of your hands. PM me and we can sort out payment. Cheers.
Sorry mate, it turned out i made a miscalculation and didnt need the spacer, so the normal bolts fitted. You can have my mk4 ones for postage if your happy cutting 3-4mm off the end
£5.62 for 4 calliper carrier bolts. Result! VW wanted that for each bolt – even though they are part of the same group! Madness! Moral of the story – check prices at both VW and Audi befor purchasing stuff!
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Quick Question. Planning on putting the rear back on the car between now and new year, but was going to change the rear duff oil first. Can anybody let me know the spec and quantity of the rear diff oil? Or do I just fill it up to maximum?
Cheers Chaps. Rear subframe back on now. Just a case of stealing a few hours here and there to do various things! Still waiting for brake hoses, and a few other bits but progress none the less!
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With regard to prices, you might just want to check the Skoda & Seat prices against the VW & Audi ones as Skoda & Seat are not the premium brands of the group.
you can check here whether or not the part nr is transferable between group brands
Hi guys – its been a while but i have been slowly getting things done. However it still seems like 10 steps forward, 11 steps back!
Car almost MOT ready – everything works – Engine sounds great, started on the button first time! Drives forwards and backwards – However one slight problem – still no Free Wheel mechanism. SO as before – I can’t push the car when in Neautral? Sounds absurd Yes?
I have checked the vacuum which all appears correct, and the solenoid is is working as it should (clicking), the reverse switch is wired in correctly and works, the relay has been checked – but even if all of this wasn’t working I should still be able to push the car when the engine is turned off Yes? Am I missing something really obvious?
Next plan is to disconnect the drive prop shaft and work out whether its the rear Diff/viscous thats locking in neutral or the Rallye gearbox. All ideas Welcome!
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With the ignition on select 3rd or 4 th gear, then return the gear lever to neutral, kill the ingition & see if you can move the car now? as ince engaged the reverse diff lock stays in 1st & 2nd gear – until 3rd or 4 th is selected
This is so that when you are ‘rocking’ the car with reverse & 1st/2nd gear to extricate yourself from mud or sand etc you only have to engage the reverse lock the first time you you engage reverse & then it stays locked in!
Also with the ignition off & in neutral, if you jack 1 side of the car up & rotate the rear wheel forwards, the front wheel should not move, but turn the rear wheel reversewards then the front wheel will turn as well,
At least I think that is the correct way round? but anyway 1 way turns the front wheel as well & the other way does not.
This checks the free wheel operation (think bicycle free wheel, if you turn the back wheel backwards then the pedals go round as well)
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