bleeding abs brakes

[dd9ucx]

Hey my 1989 Golf Syncro 1.8 failed its CT (MOT), not so happy.

The test sheet said It needed a few bulbs, and the rusted main brake line to the rear replaced. It also failed on the fact the rear brakes had insufficient power.

So I made up a new copper brake line and replaced it. I lost a fair bit of fluid when I was changing the pipe so i sucked all the old almost black fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with fresh dot 5.1 and bled it thru to each wheel.
I am really having a lot of trouble getting the original pedal feel back.

First of all I tried bleeding them furthest away wheel to closest, with the ignition key off, and then again with the key on, as I discovered the ABS pump seemed to click for about 10 seconds each time the key was turned on.
I then did closest to furthest, front to rear with the key on.
Still the pedal has poor feel, the brakes seem to work ok when the engine is running but the pedal feel is inconsistant.

Is there a special way to bleed up the ABS brakes?

Also the brake shoes in the back look like they have about 5mm of meat left in them and the drums seem ok too, so a little confused about why they would have insufficient power.

I have adjusted the handbrake cable so there is less play and the cables look way too long and seem like they are pretty new, so maybe they have been replaced with the wrong type?

Is there an internal shoe adjuster?

Also could the rear brake valve stick and not let fluid to the back wheels? This valve (name?) seems to be missing the little return spring and was wondering if this could be causing a problem. The car has been lowered about 30mm

Help me please!!!

[Chris S]

Is there a special way to bleed up the ABS brakes? – Yes, I have a paper (how to) copy here somewhere I will try & find it this week for you.

I replaced it with fresh dot 5.1 – Dot 4 please not dot 5

I have adjusted the handbrake cable so there is less play and the cables look way too long and seem like they are pretty new, so maybe they have been replaced with the wrong type? – Possibly correct p/n is 191 609 721C & available from http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de, http://www.etkashop.com/vwcp/Golf-Caddy/Golf-2/Hand-und-Fusshebelwerk/Bremszuege/Handbremsseil.html , btw the part number is moulded onto the outer cable

Is there an internal shoe adjuster? – Yes but it is (supposedly & usually) fully automatic.

Also could the rear brake valve stick and not let fluid to the back wheels? This valve (name?) – It is called a “load sensitive Brake pressure regulator”-

seems to be missing the little return spring and was wondering if this could be causing a problem. yes if it is missing, its absence can & will cause problems, ask your VW dealer for p/n 191 612 339B tension spring, it should cost less than 5 eu

[Housey]

the rears are dead easy to bleed

turn on ignition, have a friend depress the brake pedal about 2cm, until the abs pump starts. then open bleed scew, it will bleed out QUICK. and remember to let the abs pump rest a bit until you do the other side

should not run more then max 60seconds, or it will overheat and fail

oh, and remember to open the valve underneath the car. or else you won’t get it fully bled

the front can be bled as you usually would do. either by having someone depressing the brake, and do it manually, or use a vacuum operated power-bleeder (which i do)

[dd9ucx]

great stuff thanks fellas, will have another go today with dot4, also you said:

oh, and remember to open the valve underneath the car. or else you won’t get it fully bled

hmmm which valve do I open?

i love this site!

[Housey]

the load balancing valve wich is connected via a spring to the swaybar there are a hole in the cast of it, then on the lever, use a zip-tipe and pull it tight

[Author]

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