Yes that’s still my email,
I believe the issue was sorted thanks
If you look inside the vr6 box I’m sure you’ll find it’s a bolt in diff, i swapped to a vr6 diff when I changed to the haldex rear diff to use the skoda transfer box
I for one am still waiting to hear from dazfxvw if his solution sorted the problem out? it would be nice if it did.then we could all know how to do it
While he Darren (dazfxvw ) has been a member on here since 09/01/2008 he has not posted since 17/05/2016 & also has not been logged in on site since 30/01/2017, that is not to say that he hasn’t looked in without logging in,
Which is also something I do from time to time since I retired,
I no longer drive a car as to due to my health issues (my license has been revoked)
I was 66 years old last week & obviously I am not in the best of health, some of the early members will recall my previous operations etc,
I try to look in here about once a week or so, but I cannot be as involved as much as I used to be, sorry but thats what happens when you get older!
Hi All, Sorry to hear your not on the road anymore Chris but great that you can share the knowledge still!
the problem is the diff CSR is bolt in and the ASU push. not realising this when i had the CSR box rebuilt i used the CSR diff. i have had the ASU transfer box rebuilt and modified to use the bolt in drive cups by Martin Emment of Gas’n’Gears (HotGolf) from the GTi forum. as it was cheaper than opening up my rebuilt bos and swapping diffs.
here are some pics.
ASU Transfer box with collar – this makes the length of the shaft correct
length of shaft coming out original ASU TB
length of shaft in original CSR
difference in case ends of ASU and CSR which causes the shaft length issue.