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Now replace the little in line fuel filter please, as the muck [
] is still in there somewhere just waiting to strike again and usually at the worst possible moment [!].And on a lighter note “that was my 2500th post” perhaps I should get a life, does any one know where I can get one that doesn’t involve the words Volkswagon or Syncro please, all suggestions to the usual adress thank you. [
]have changed the filter thankyou[
] and congratulations and dont get a life just yet cos my cars still broke and your the only one that maybe able to help. (yoda of syncros?).quote:
Originally posted by holmeshave changed the filter thankyou[
] and congratulations and dont get a life just yet cos my cars still broke and your the only one that maybe able to help. (yoda of syncros?).“Yoda of Syncros” [
] PMSLhad a go in the car today gave it a bit of a drive, the problem returned. i think it maybe dirt in the tank so that will be my next job i think cleaning the tank out. how to?
*strokes chin*.
I hate to differ here, Chris, but -it might be a large particle of crap in the tank, that’s partially blocking the outlet, causing the fuel starvation. If that’s the case, you might try removing the outlet pipe from the tank and emptying it – I’ll bet there’s some ****e in there after 20ish years, even if it IS a plastic tank. PLEASE be very careful when removing the hose – you may find the plastic tank is a little brittle after all those years.
I don’t know what sort of a breather network of pipes (if any) ther is on the tank, either – if there is one this could be the cause. Fit a flexicap with a hole drilled in it and see if you get the same issues – it would suggest that the tank is suffering a vacuum situation, stopping the fuel being pulled out.
Keep going, you’ll get it sorted eventually. At least it isn’t a bloody earthing problem – I hate them!
Yes that is also a possibility, but I more like the idea of the tank breather being blocked, it happened to me once on a Golf 2, it was about 8 years ago and I had forgotten.
To test for this just drive along till the car starts really playing up and wont go any further, then stop and remove the petrol tank cap you may hear air hissing into the tank as you unscrew the cap, I know I did, my cure was to drill a 1/mm hole in the filler cap.drove home the other night and the car started to die so i pulled over and opened the fuel cap as suggested, there was no hissing so that was ok, so i decided to get a can of carb cleaner and blasted the whole lot down anything to do with the fuel except back to the tank, including the carb. i started the car there was loads of white smoke and since that day have had no further problems so it must have been a bit of crap in the carb, so i taught it a lesson ha ha[}
] thanks for your help guys.hi guys went for a drive at the weekend the problem returned i mangaed to full throttle it home but when i got home the engine cut out. it didnt start again. blasted it with some carb cleaner but no go, when i checked the carb holes they were full of petrol? the car only starts after a few minutes in which i have to keep the car over 3000rpm or the car cuts out even if i have the choke out, the exhaust note is burbled and rumbley with large volumes of whiteish blueish smoke i could have flooded the engine? a mechanic suggested that the float chamber maybe blocked or seized and that i should remove the carb and check, is there any pictures showing how to dismantle the carb? regards [V]
Test your (mechanical) fuel pump, its on the front of the engine, failing that there is a carb drawing & parts list here
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/weberexplode.htm
scroll down to 34 DMTRhi chris as my car is as good as buggered i am thinking of keeping it off the road and getting the engine changed. iam going to the scrapy at the weekend so i need to know what bits i need to remove from the donor mark 3 golf i have compiled a small list please tell me if ineed any more or less of these parts or at all regards darren.
engine
wiring
ignition etc
engine management
braking etc
exhaust
fuel supply
gearbox etc
pedal box etc
suspension etc
engine mounts
carb and manifolds ( price of your twin webbers please)
anything else you can think of.[]Sorry but I didn’t have my thinking head on last night when I replied to your previous post, When you stated that “the car only starts after a few minutes in which I have to keep the car over 3000rpm or the car cuts out even if i have the choke out”
I should have realised that all that is wrong is that your idle jet is blocked!
Take all 4 jets/tubes out (one at a time please, so they dont get mixed up) dismantle them & and blow them through with an air line, you can also blow the tube bore holes in the carb out with the airline as well if you like, mind you your best bet would probably be to get the carb stripped and ultrasound cleaned.
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