KNOCKING NOISE FROM REAR

[Chris S]

http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1734

And if you have the Haynes Manual b/n 1081 for the Golf 2 it shows how to replace the front wheel bearing, and apart from the different shaped hubs the procedure is identical for the rear, but first make sure it is not the (rusty)brake drum catching on the backplate.
To remove the diff have a look on ther adjustable rear axle thread as this shows the mounting bolts, but lets hope it doesent come to that.

[holmes]

hi chris aswell as the options you have suggested, i noticed that the propshaft seal has perished and is leaking grease so i may change that first, i’ll try the easier options first then work up i think. are there any problems with getting the prop shaft off and what will happen if i spin the shaft to gain access to the bolts? regards

[Chris S]

You can spin the shaft with no problems and it it easier to remove than a drive shaft, one thing you wont like though is the price of the propshaft seal, that is if you mean the rubber boot over the cv joint. p/n is 191 521 391A and the price is horrendous [}] at 60 euros ish

[holmes]

have taken the prop shaft off the other golf this also has a split gaitor and ive been to vw and the cost is about £45+ vat (daylight robbery) do you know how to remove the cv joint from the shaft ive removed the split pin but it doesn’t just lift off, i think you mentioned it before and had a picture somewhere but can’t remember. do you know where to get a car trolley cheap as possible as i need to gut the other syncro but jacking it up in a small garage is proving tricky.

[Chris S]

Try hammering it with a nylon or copper hammer, they can be really tight sometimes.

[holmes]

hi chris, can a normal cv boot kit be used instead of the one you have listed? part number 191498201a it looks a better option?.regards

[Chris S]

Well physically it will fit, but the rubber bellows part on the correct (expensive) boot is hidden inside its metal case and on the normal CV boot it is a plastic Accordian type boot.
I personally have compared the two set ups side by side, and think it may help to extend your centre tunnel heatshield further back by pop riveting a thin piece of aluminium onto it, this should hide the longer boot from the exhaust heat, which will definitely shorten its life, and in a worst case scenario could cause it to melt or even catch fire.

You will have to try this out for yourself as I am not sure it is a modification I can recommend!

as something like this

http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=1276

can really spoil your day [:0] [xx(]

[1.8TsyncroB3]

I can state that the normal boot will fit, but it won’t last long due to the heat. I tried twice and it resulted in each boot lasting less than 6 months. The second attempt involved better heat shielding, but it still didn’t stop the heat from destroying the rubber. What happens is the rubber dries out and cracks, letting all the grease out. Some grease gets on the exhaust system, potentially causing a fire.

The correct boot is made of a better quality rubber that resists high heat. The rubber section is surrounded by metal, further protecting it.

[Chris S]

After all you dont want to end up like this []

[holmes]

ok i will take your warning and stop being a tight arse and get the correct part thanks for your guidance.

[holmes]

called in a technician friend the other night to check the noise, he said he’d put money on the problem being the propshaft middle section rubbers so ill get the other out at the weekend and check.

[Chris S]

If needed I have a complete centre section with good bearing rubbers here, btw, they (the rubber bearing mountings) cost over 50 pounds each at VW, p/ns are 191 521 349 front & 191 521 350 rear, the propshaft CV joint kits (which btw include the boot) are p/n 321 498 350 X

[holmes]

hi chris what would you want for the section if i need it? regards

[Chris S]

Not a lot, especially compared to the VW Prices!

[holmes]

changed the propshaft at the weekend took me 2.5hrs was very tired after this, went for a drive and the noise was still there[!]. the only part i havent changed is the o/s/r driveshaft and the diff. if it were the diff wouldnt i be gettin an increase in noise or vibration? i have tried to put a bit of accelerating strain on the system (not to much though) just to see if the noise gets louder or not but it doesn’t. is there anyone who has had the type of noise iam trying to explain iam fast running out of ideas, money a patients any ideas greatly recieved []thanks to all.

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