› Forums › Repairs & Technical › Fitting Haldex to your G2 Syncro › Haldex Controllers
Hi joe, fantastic build job on your mk1, had a thought, are you using a mk5 rear diff? the diff is different in the mk5 than in the mk4 ans early TT and S3’s and the control is different but we can work that out I hope.
One questioncomment about your build if you don’t mind.
I think that the solid replacement for the front propshaft donut is going to cause you major problems, ironically if you have the skill and confidance to cut and weld driveshafts, why don’t you cut off the front of the propshaft and weld on the correct type for the transfer box then use the rubber donut!!
Please don’t take this as a negative comment, I’m in awe of your welding skills and I’m impressed with your attitude for someone of 19.
At that age I was definately in the “that should be ok…fingers crossed” style of modding.
cheers
Mike
I agree, please use a rubber coupling on the front of the propshaft as a solid one has been tried many times before and has always caused (expensive) problems, but an awsome build anyway.
hi Mike
thanks for the positive comments, i’m using the mk4 golf rear diff not the mk5 one.
the propshaft i have been in and dated about this problem but i have got a 4motion shaft and shortened it so i will be running the rubber i just havent put it on my forum yet lol.
cutting and shortening driveshafts was a bit worrying as i have never considered doing things like this before it turned out quite good though but the proof will be when i get it going lol.
ive got the haldex controller back in one piece now
thanks Joe
Hi Joe, I will e-mail you my address and phone number and we can sort out sending the controller to me…thanks
btw did you get my earlier e-mail?
Good news that the rear diff is from a mk4, easier to get it working first and develop the mk5 version later maybe!
Glad you have decided to fit the rubber front donut that will reduce the chances of having to replace lots of tranny bits…i’m not very keen on solid mounts, i’ve seen a number of good cars modded with care, yet spoilt by harsh vibrations due to solid mounts…never understood the benefits, poly mounts usually keep things under control without the vibes……bear in mind I am an old git…..
(when I was 20 I loved really loud exhausts and hard suspension)…but now I’ve seen the folly of my ways…lol
Long live power and comfort!!!!
mike
i run a solid engine mount on my mk2 20vt to stop the engine movement as i was having problems with the enigine to much in comparisson to my dads mk2 which runs all the original rubbers. youd never know the difference but well see when things are running.
you can fit a stronger (stiffer ) front rubber donut
I am doing some similar work as Audi Doody for my own build.
I am using picaxe microcontroller to controll the stepper in the Haldex unit.
Here is some of the work I have done so far:
Electronic diagram:
Program so far:
symbol adc_value = b1
symbol desiredposition = b4 ;
symbol oldposition = b5 ;
symbol numberofsteps = w3 ;
symbol numberofmoves = b8 ;
symbol direction = b11
symbol ant_step = w6
b9 = 4 ;
main:
pause 2
readadc 1, b1 ;
if b1 < 42 then
desiredposition = 0 ‘1st segment
elseif b1 < 85 then
desiredposition = 1 ‘2nd segment
elseif b1 < 128 then
desiredposition = 2 ‘3rd segment
elseif b1 < 170 then
desiredposition = 3 ‘4th segment
elseif b1 < 213 then
desiredposition = 4 ‘5th segment
else
desiredposition = 5 ‘6th segment
end if
if oldposition = desiredposition then
‘No need to move so check again
goto main
elseif oldposition > desiredposition then
‘If needed to move then work out how far
numberofmoves = oldposition – desiredposition
numberofsteps = numberofmoves * 500
direction = 0
else
‘If needed to move then work out how far
numberofmoves = desiredposition – oldposition
numberofsteps = numberofmoves * 500
direction = 1
end if
if direction = 1 then
gosub movestepper
else
gosub movestepperback
endif
oldposition = desiredposition ;
goto main ;
MOVE:
movestepper:
for ant_step = 1 to numberofsteps
b2 = b2 + 1
b2 = b2 & %00000011
LOOKUP b2, (%1001, %0101, %0110, %1010), b3
pins = b3
pause b9 ;
next ant_step
return
movestepperback:
for ant_step = 1 to numberofsteps
b2 = b2 – 1
b2 = b2 & %00000011
LOOKUP b2, (%1001, %0101, %0110, %1010), b3
pins = b3
pause b9 ;
next ant_step
return
I will not promise any timeline when this will be finished or if I`ll post more of the code when I am getting closer to my goal.
Want to see my projectcar, G2 1.8T syncro (to be Haldex):
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4059536-My-turboed-Mk2-syncro
Hi, good to see others getting into controlling the Haldex diff!
Was going to say it’s not that hard to do but I guess I had better not say anything till I get mine working….good luck anyway.
I am currently completing the design, now I have the stepper motor.
fair bit of testing to do but everything is looking good so far.
Big thanks to joes for sorting me out with a Haldex controller…I bet he will finish his car before I get the controller done!!
BTW anyone know how to determine the ratio of how much power is being sent F/R on 4wd.. can it be done on a 4wd rolling road?
The problem I have is, if I open the valve by 50% does this relate to 50% of the power availible at the rear diff being used to drive the rear wheels?
ie is the valve position linear to the power at the rear wheels?
cheers
Mike
Here is a couple of pictures from inside the Haldex.
And is there anny progres?
Dit buy a complete golf 4 V6 4motion.
Toke it apart, so i can convert my golf 2.
in the proces of trimming down the wires, i found out that the haldex needs to much information.
I want to manual control it, whitout abs, so no wheel speed sensors.
No need for potentiometer on/off wil be fine
But manual dis engage while driving, is this possible ?