› Forums › Repairs & Technical › Repairs & Technical for Golf & Passat cars › Digifant conversion
Hi,
I’ve picked up an ’89 RHD Golf in standard spec. The bodywork seems solid, although the standard Poorburg carb engine is both sickly and gutless. I’m looking to replace it with something a little quicker without going overboard on mods. I’ve previously owned a MK2 GTI with the Digifant engine and found it to be nippy enough and very reliable.
Digging around this superb site, it seems that the right vintage Digi engine and loom would bolt and plug straight in. Am I right in thinking the only other mods needed are to the fuel system, as follows?
> Rallye sender unit
> GTI lift and inline pumps
> 7mm return line, either Syncro supply line or GTI line extended to reach the sender
Would I need to uprate any mechanicals for the extra bhp? I know the Syncro exhaust manifold is not a great design, but is the power loss just annoying or is it unworkably bad?
Also, I unfortunately have neither the time nor skill to do an engine swap myself – the most I’ve ever done is replace a driveshaft. If I got a garage to do all this, roughly how much would I be looking at?
Sorry for all the noob questions, I’d appreciate any advice you could offer.
you don’t actualy have to swap the enigne, just the cylinder head with inlet manifold and assoiated bumf
Thanks Danny, that’s a good point. Anciliaries and electricals don’t worry me, I was just worried about deconstructing the entire front end and getting heavy lifting gear involved. Especially since it’s sat up in my parent’s garage atm []
Time to dig out the Haynes manual and start scouting Ebay…
So, a year after buying the Syncro, I have finally gotten around to trying to convert it to Digifant injection.
I’ve now bought a 91 8v GTI, and made some progress in stripping it down. I’ve removed the interior (excluding the dash), glass, big bumpers and side trim, cylinder head with manifolds, accumulator, dizzy, coil and alternator. I know I still need the inline and lifter pumps, the wiring loom and clocks.
Things I believe I’ll need to buy for the conversion are: a Rallye sender unit and a 7mm Syncro fuel line (for the return feed). Have I missed anything? I’m planning to bolt the Syncro exhaust manifold to the PB head.
Is there any value in removing the block, gearbox, fuel tank, brakes, PAS or suspension? With the latter three, I’m thinking it could be difficult to get the shell towed away if they’re removed.
Appreciate your advice; I’m planning to post some pics up shortly.
Depending which front brakes the GTI has? it may be worth swapping them over to your Syncro.
Link here http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=119
As for the in tank lift pump, you can adapt the GTI one to fit the (deeper) Syncro tank,
you can also use the GTI in line pump as it is the same part as fitted to the 98 BHP Syncro GT
IIRC, 8v GTIs have the same brakes as any other Golf. The only thing that may be different with an 8v GTI is vented discs, which will swap right over, but you need to make sure that you get the correct brake pads for them, since the vented discs are wider, so they need a thinner pad.
I’m not sure about Europe, but in the US, the Jetta GLI (came only in 2.0 16v) had the larger 10.4″ front brakes, which are somewhere between those found on the base Golf, and the ones found on the G60/VR6 cars.
Personally, I would prefer to just use the big valve head & G-Grind cam from the GTI, and get yourself a nice Weber DMTL carb. You will be right up there with the Digi2 engine power wise, and have a much less complicated setup to boot. (not to mention that Digi2 is a pig to get running right once it starts acting up)
I have a DMTL on my ’86 Syncro, and I must say it made a HUGE difference in how the car feels. I’m sure I picked up a few HP as well, due to the big difference in the size of the ports in the carb versus the Pooburg 2E2. The throttle response in incredible, which IMO is something that fuel injection is still lacking in, and you can’t beat the sound of a weber topped with an open element K&N filter. (except maybe with dual Weber DCOE’s)