December 4, 2012 at 5:47 pm #9713
Where could i buy new inserts? Can you tell me all the specs for new inserts and locking washers, as i dont know how they should look. Do you think that professional machiner could fix this?
This is not so important cause this vc is spare which came with car.December 4, 2012 at 6:42 pm #9714
I don’t know the specs as I gave one of my inserts to a friend who machined one on a lathe, the locking washer is some special part and I ain’t been able to find any info on it. I can take pictures for you of the insert and the locking washer so you can see them. As I said earlier the outer thread is the same as a spark plug so if the insert was removed a spark plug would screw straight in.December 4, 2012 at 7:02 pm #9716
ok. take those pictures.December 4, 2012 at 7:25 pm #9717
I would like a photo of the locking washer please.December 4, 2012 at 7:25 pm #9718
I have found some pictures of the locking washer
I shall take some of the insert later.December 4, 2012 at 8:36 pm #9719
Here are the pictures of the insert, the first picture shows what the holes should look like….
This one shows the insert coming out of the hole….
And these are of the insert from all angles……
I hope this helps December 4, 2012 at 10:11 pm #9720
yes, this helps a lot.December 8, 2012 at 1:58 pm #9733
What a strange set up!December 8, 2012 at 4:03 pm #9734
I think they made them like this Chris so the bolts for the prop are biting on steel rather than the alloy of the VC.February 15, 2013 at 7:41 pm #9920
Hey hey hey! Engine is running again. Slight problems with oil pressure though, it keeps buzzing warning.February 17, 2013 at 10:21 am #9922
that would be a dodgy sensor I reckon.February 17, 2013 at 2:42 pm #9923
I think so too as it only is warning light blinking. No buzzer like i said before.February 22, 2013 at 5:49 pm #9924
Weird idle problem i have (Digifant Joda). It idles just above 1000rpm with little humming +- 50rpm. If i adjust idle lower i drops just under 1000rpm and i cant get to that 850rpm. I changed CTS cleaned ISV and tested it works. Idle switch also works, air leaks are 98% sure fixed. Timing can be out of what it supposed to so that might be the reason as i dont have timing lamp. Could leaking exhaust make this kind of symptoms, it leaks from o2 sender. Maybe its that “wrong” dizzy i have, though vacuum is not connected to it so i just gives that hall information.
But it feels and sounds like it isnt backfiring and it pulls very good from low to high rpm.
Btw. what aftermarket oil temp gauge (metric) i could use with oem temp sender?
What is tested also is that 4wd works with reverse tooApril 4, 2013 at 11:50 am #10004
Still having idle problems it runs nice when hot but idles near 1100rpm with little or no hunting but if adjusted from idle screw to near 850 it wont run nice anymore. I changed distributor to one without vacuum advance unit and new cap and rotor.But now i have to re-adjust ignition timing. I adjusted ISV valve as it was too much open when in normal position, (found a guide from internet) and it really improved idle and throttle response. Still what i have to do is change spark plugs and cabels. I think i havent found all vacuum leaks yet.
Is there vacuum pipes connected to brake and clutch pedals and then to rear diff?April 4, 2013 at 9:08 pm #10008
Is there vacuum pipes connected to brake and clutch pedals and then to rear diff?
There were on my first (1988) syncro, but not on my 89 model
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