My 1990 Golf Country.

Forums Members Cars (contains Photos) My 1990 Golf Country.

This topic contains 58 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  Ademaxx 4 years, 8 months ago.

Viewing 14 posts - 46 through 59 (of 59 total)
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  • #9679

    Cokkeli
    Member

    Rear absorbers were custom made for my Country in rally systems check link http://www.rallysystems.com/English/Front_page.html

    #9681

    Ademaxx
    Member

    How much did they cost you to be custom made??

    #9683

    Cokkeli
    Member

    i didnt buy them but the guy who sold my country to me said they were like 300 euros a pair. Pricey, but these ones are serviceable. That shop is in Finland , i bet that you have there similar kind of shop. Hope you understand my writing… :)

    #9992

    Cokkeli
    Member

    Hi Ademaxx. How did you open your Viscous coupler with lathe maybe? How did you reseal it?

    #9995

    Country
    Member

    You can get oem front and rear shocks and springs at vw classic parts or ebay.de

    #10001

    Ademaxx
    Member

    quote:


    Originally posted by Cokkeli

    Hi Ademaxx. How did you open your Viscous coupler with lathe maybe? How did you reseal it?


    I placed the coupling into a vice, then removed the metal band that holds the end cap on the coupling. The band is threaded through the slot on the side of the coupling, it’s an internal circlip, at first I wasn’t sure what was holding the end cap on so used a inch drive air gun with a big socket to turn the end cap but you could get away with just using a power bar, that’s when I spotted the band, once you manage to start getting the band to come out of the slot, use a pair of mole grips to hold end of band while tapping them with a hammer, once the band is out the end cap can be removed. There are a couple of seals running around end cap make sure you dont damage these as not sure where to get any. That’s it basically, to re-seal use the same method as removing band, hold with mole grips and tap with hammer. I also put a bit of mastic sealer around edge of end cap just to be sure the seals didn’t fail. Hope this helps you some what, anything else you want to know just ask. I must get my other coupling sorted and put a picture guide up on here for you.

    #10002

    Ademaxx
    Member

    quote:


    Originally posted by Country

    You can get oem front and rear shocks and springs at vw classic parts or ebay.de


    All sorted with the shockers mate, yeah I know vw classic stock them. [:)]

    #10003

    Cokkeli
    Member

    Picture guide would be very nice.

    #10005

    Ademaxx
    Member

    quote:


    Originally posted by Cokkeli

    Picture guide would be very nice.


    Yeah I thought you’d say that! [:D] I’ll be booking some time off work in the next few weeks so hopefully be able to get that done for you/anyone else. If you watch these vids, this guy opens a coupling off a T3 it has a slightly different way the end cap is held on but it gives you a good idea of the process.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slujJmXoSAo

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkKAFpIMVlA

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLofNcBXFK0

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBCLkgUT5RQ

    I think they are in the right order there, I know it’s in German but this is what I watched before doing mine. The only thing I’m a bit worried about is if I’ve put the correct amount of fluid in. I done it the same as the guy in the vid but because his is a different type coupling not sure if the quantity of viscous fluid needed is the same, but my coupling is deffo better than it was before doing the job.

    #10006

    M1kk0
    Member

    Ademaxx:
    In finnish Volkswagen forum, people have said that correct amount of viscous fluid in syncro T2/T3 is about 260-275 grams, and that viscous coupling is about 315-330 millilitres, which means that coupling is about 86% full of oil. If you put over 90% of oil, it jams, if you put less than 84% it doesn’t activate at all. I have also heard that reason why you need to leave about 10-16% of air in coupling, is that when it warms up, it can expand. Few people have topped up the whole coupling and when it has warmed up, it has cracked in pieces. Also they have said that every Syncro viscous should be samekind, but from that i am not sure.

    #10010

    Ademaxx
    Member

    Interesting! I couldn’t find any info on the golf coupling, I did think when doing the job it didn’t look enough but knew not to overfill it. Looks like I’ll have to open this one back up and put some more in. Thanks for the info that’s great!

    #10046

    Ademaxx
    Member

    quote:


    Originally posted by M1kk0

    syncro T2/T3 is about 260-275 grams, and that viscous coupling is about 315-330 millilitres


    Should these figures be both in grams or millilitres?? Cheers.

    #10052

    Cokkeli
    Member
    #10054

    Ademaxx
    Member

    The way they done it on vortex seems ok, that Means a big circlip would replace the wire. I managed to get the wire to come out the way it went in so my endcap is held on the same way as originally. Nice one for the info I’ll have a good read through it.

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