LD50’s syncro… attempt #2, now #3 – It moves ;)

Forums Project Cars (contains photos) LD50’s syncro… attempt #2, now #3 – It moves ;)

This topic contains 160 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by  LD50 1 week, 3 days ago.

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  • #793

    ld50
    Member

    Since someone archived my project history and un-archiving it is a lengthy and tedious process, I’m going to have to start a fresh thread for now.

    In the unlikely event that I ever have any spare time I’ll write a script to un-archive the threads which were (in my view) mistakenly archived. Unfortunately programming for databases is about the dullest task ever so it’s not likely to be anytime soon :

    Fortunately things have been gradually improving work-wise and I even had a spare afternoon to work on the syncro the other day.

    At this stage I’m more-or-less re-assessing where I’m up to, and figuring out how to proceed.

    dsc00482_.jpg
    I suspect the WD40 on it’s own might be a bit optimistic.

    #4817

    ld50
    Member

    I’ve added and annotated some of the photos about rust as previously mentioned….

    http://www2.plus8.net/jpegstore/uk/vwsyncro_ld50/p_thumbnails.asp?archive=Rust&page=1&strSearch=&pass_view=

    #4952

    ld50
    Member

    Yay finally a bit more time to make some ground on the syncro o/

    not much to report yet, jsut been re-treating some of the less-successfully rust-proofed areas from previously.

    Also, inspired by danny’s angle-drive-bracket bracket-welding on TC’s car I’m re-wondering if it’s possible to fit a straightfroward kr rather than the g60/kr mishmash I have now…would be much simpler for swaps and spare parts.

    need to do some experimenting.. I should have most of the bits lying around so will try and taker some pics of test-fits.

    #4953

    re2
    Member

    keep us posted
    : )

    #4955

    no such user
    Participant

    quote:


    Originally posted by ld50

    Also, inspired by danny’s angle-drive-bracket bracket-welding on TC’s car I’m re-wondering if it’s possible to fit a straightfroward kr rather than the g60/kr mishmash I have now…would be much simpler for swaps and spare parts.


    Errr, the transfer box bracket modifications were done on Danny’s car. Mine had the appropriate holes on it.

    This is Danny’s bracket modification:

    P5030069.jpg

    Just fit an ABF with G3/Toledo standard injection – makes far more sense than anything else and you *only* need to make your own tubular manifold, downpipe and transfer mount.

    #4956

    ld50
    Member

    > Errr, the transfer box bracket modifications were done on Danny’s car.

    ah yes right you are.

    > Just fit an ABF with G3/Toledo standard injection – makes far more sense than anything
    > else and you *only* need to make your own tubular manifold, downpipe and transfer mount.

    thanks but I have a plan that I’m sticking to for the moment…I never claimed it made sense ;)

    the pgkr is in and has been proven to work, I’m just trying to make the solution more elegant and robust. Given I’ve got KR spares, looms, metering units etc coming out of my ears and I’d be very happy with KR performance in the syncro for the time being i think I’ll be using KR bits for now.

    #4960

    no such user
    Participant

    pgkr should still be very good fun. as still has the 16 valveyness

    #5392

    ld50
    Member

    The KR-into-syncro plan is making progress and is looking generally promising..

    I spent most of this weekend removing stuck bolts so I could mock up the KR on a g60syncro box and I reckon the missing bolt-hole can be made up for with a suitable bracket…(pics to follow)

    The downpipe is already made and whilst it won’t flow as well as a 16v twin downpipe, it’ll do for the moment and only needs a standard 16v manifold to complete.

    Although I’ve test-fitted on a g60 box, in the interests of K.I.S.S., for now I think it’ll actually end up on the old (rod shift) box since it’s already fitted and working and should cope fine with a KR for the time being.

    Also stuff like the front engine mount point is different on the g60 so with a rod-shift box it’ll sit on my trolley/dolly which makes working on it very convenient…not something I can do on the g60 at the moment. Also I have two of the “U” brackets for the transfer box so if I bodge one I’m not completely stuffed.

    Aidan from bahnstorm.net should be putting the KR loom in once I’ve got the basics fitted as that’s where I got stuck with the G60 kit. A working KR platform would be a very good starting point IMO and is plenty tweakable. Plus we have my 16v as a working reference :)

    pics to follow once I’ve got them off my phone.

    #5396

    no such user
    Participant

    chould allways weld a lug onto the std kr block ?

    #5397

    ld50
    Member

    tbh I don’t think that’s something I can do myself and it never seemed like that reliable an option.

    I’m gonna go with what I know here – box section steel and 4mm plate ;)

    #5399

    no such user
    Participant

    if you ever decide to go 2ltrs the 6A and 9A have the bolt holes in the block but the 020 rodchange box fouls the bubbel block it can be made to fit with a bit of grinding but the 02c clears the block fine

    #5400

    Trev16v
    Member

    I am almost certainly going to be fitting a KR in a Syncro too, because I built my 16V G60 using a KR long before I knew I would end up wanting to put it into a Syncro.

    I am proposing to make a bracket that compensates for the missing thread by providing support from the rear engine mount area instead. In actual fact, I shall be moving the alternator from the front to the back when it goes into my LHD Syncro; I therefore propose that the ‘Limited’ style rear alternator bracket will have an extra ‘arm’ coming from it to bolt to the transfer box mount, if that makes sense.

    #5401

    ld50
    Member

    brackets FTW! :)

    yep makes perfect sense – reckon it’ll be strong enough just off the engine mount bit or will you have a second mounting point?

    #5355

    ld50
    Member

    Ok I’ve been making decent progress with this and think I’ve got a workable solution.

    I’ve been taking photos as I figure this out and they’re here:

    http://www2.plus8.net/sites/vwsyncro/p.asp?arc=KR_Into_syncro&search=&cmd=do_search&i=0&big=0&gotourl=&p=9.Photos_LD50%2F_

    I started off with a cardboard template to try and get a feel for the shape the bracket needs to be and so see how the stresses would spread. For reference as to clearances I’ve got a KR attached to a G60 syncro box on the hoist, and have a bare syncro block as a building jig.

    Initially I was thinking to use a series of triangles cut from 4mm steel and welded together to brace each other as well as also clearly route the stress forces to the nearest bolts.

    After cardboard I started mocking-up with regular body-panel steel to get a more accurate idea of what goes where. In doing this I realised that there wouldn’t be enough clearance around the CV joint and a couple of other places which would basically compromise the “plate” design.

    Above the U bracket though is actually a nice amount of space. It’s directly under the manifold so it’ll be plenty toasty under there but I guess we don’t have to worry too much about rust.

    In any case, whilst I didn’t really want to start adapting existing parts I realised that basically just welding a bar of 30mm box-section to the top of the U bracket, would nicely bridge the gap between the top-left engine-mount-bolt and the gearbox bolt on the other side in a very rigid-stylee.

    This would mean the “bracket” could basically be made from about 12″ of said box-section and a few scraps for reinforcement. The angles in the box-section can be achieved using a slice-n-weld technique: leaving one side intact and removing the amount needed with a disc cutter, bending and welding shut at the new angle. I built my engine hoist using that technique and the joins are pretty sturdy.

    Unfortunately the spare box I had is only a partial spare box, there’s no transfer-box or u-bracket so that means the next thing I have to do is pull the “PG-KR” from the syncro to test the fitment for real and weld the actual bracket up, since the G60 u-bracket is different.

    We can worry about g60 kit when it’s running again ;)

    This is roughly the design I’m hoping to end up with:

    dsc00743_bracket_3d.jpg
    The box-section will have a couple of nuts welded to it and de-threaded so that an extra-long gearbox bolt/stud can be used and bolted into place from the right-hand-side.

    dsc00743_with.jpg
    The Beam would be welded to the top of the u-bracket and then reinforced with small triangles of 4mm steel.

    I reckon that’ll make it as solid as the gearbox it’s attached to, if not moreso :)

    Looking at it – I guess it’s the same technique as dannyp used in the pic above, but upside down to compensate for the other bolt-hole.

    Is yours holding ok dan?

    #5356

    re2
    Member

    all good stuff

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