Adjustable rear camber & toe in Guide

Forums Reference DIY Photo Guides Adjustable rear camber & toe in Guide

This topic contains 39 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by  LD50 10 months, 4 weeks ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 40 total)
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  • #8597

    Chris S
    Moderator

    As you alter the camber you alter the toe in(very)slightly, so it does make more sense to do both bushes and have it fully adjustable.

    #8667

    Trev16v
    Member

    I just got on the blower to VW and, working from this list of parts you provided Chris:

    quote:


    P/N 4F0 501 387 Bolt M12 x 1.5 x 115mm
    I used P/N WHT 001 682 which is no longer available!

    P/N WHT 000 708 domed nut

    P/N 4F0 501 389C for the adjuster piece that sits under the nut


    Oddly the chap said that 4F0 501 387 has been dropped in July ’06 and is now replaced with the WHT 001 682, which is kind of opposite to what you’ve said there. Whether his information on his system was accurate I don’t know. I’ll wait and see what actually turns up! Thanks again for posting all of this Chris.

    #8668

    Chris S
    Moderator

    My ETKA says the same as your dealers does, so its probably me that got it wrong, [B)]

    You may also want to look at this thread.

    http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=952

    #9105

    Trev16v
    Member

    By the way – I just measured the heads on the bolts that I got, and they’re 33mm. Strange, as they really do look identical to your 37mm ones in your pictures, Chris.

    Shall be getting the plates machined this week.

    I assume that a sufficient amount of adjustment can still be gained from 33mm heads as opposed to 37mm.

    #9106

    Chris S
    Moderator

    Its not the actual head diameter that controls the range of adjustment, it is totally controlled by the offset between the head & shaft centers, 5mm of offset will give a 1 centimeter range of travel.

    #9168

    Trev16v
    Member

    Thanks Chris – I realise it was a bit of a daft question now!

    My friend has also offered to get the slots done at the machine shop, too. So, just to be absolutely sure, are the slots positioned centrally along the length of *all* pieces? In other words, are all pieces made with the slots positioned as per your photographs, with the slot 2.5cm down from the end?

    I’m guessing that with the 4cm pieces, the slots are again centralised, i.e. 2cm from the end?

    (If you can’t remember and you’re not sure, what I’ll probably do is get all pieces made to 5cm with a centralised slot and trim any that I need to.)

    #9175

    Chris S
    Moderator

    As I was working “in the dark” I put my slots in centrally,

    that was based on the idea that I did not want the bolthead falling out of the end of the guide when it was rotated.

    As far as I can recall all the slots were positioned centrally, there is no reason to offset them.

    #21522

    TrevG60Syncro
    Participant

    I’m literally about to do this modification at long last, with everything on the bench ready. The images are missing from this thread unfortunately. I’ll attempt to find what I can in Google’s cache. Can anyone else help with images?

    #21523

    TrevG60Syncro
    Participant

    Looks like it’s a port 80/443 (HTTP/HTTPS) configuration issue at the server, because the images work when viewed individually and https removed from path.

    #21526

    LD50
    Keymaster

    ah bugger I was messing about with the SSL stuff yesterday after getting scary warnigns from google about “insecure pages”, will see how I managed to break it.

    EDIT: Actually the pics on the first page of this post are showing up for me. Are they the ones you mean?

    • This reply was modified 10 months, 4 weeks ago by  LD50.
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