Adjusting your rear camber,
You only need a half a meter length of Mild steel bar machined with a slot for the offset bolts, the dimensions are 500mm long x 45mm wide x 10mm thick, and it cost me only 25 euros ready machined out
PLEASE NOTE that the slot needs to be machined out to suit YOUR eccentric bolt heads,
in my case this was 37mm wide x 5mm deep, but unfortunately VW have altered the eccentric head sizes since I did my conversion
and your dimensions will be different, so please buy your bolts etc and then get your bar machined up to fit them.
The machined bar is sawed into 6 x 5cm long pieces and 2 x 4cm long pieces
Measurement 5cm long
Drilling a pilot hole in the 5cm long cut off piece, this hole is actually drilled offset to the side at 2.5cms down from top on the horizontal center line of workpiece) parallelogram error (camera angle) makes the vertical look offset
Opening the pilot holes out to fit the offset bolts
Here is one that went wrong, as you can see the holes are not at right angles to the slot or parallel to the (left hand ) reference end
In the absence of a plasma cutter or any new type sophisticated equipment, here I am filing the 2 holes out to form the slot which will allow the offset bolt head to rotate
Bolt fitted from the wrong side just to show the slot
This is the outer wishbone bracket after I have welded the new slotted runner pieces in and have slotted the original round mounting holes out to allow the offset bolts to rotate, this shows almost fully out about 27.8 cm on the measure
This shows the opposite adjustment to the last photo, nearly 29 cm a difference of 11mm which is the maximum available using these offset nuts & bolts
The inner pair of mountings are mounted with the slot vertically this controls the camber
The outer pair are horizontally slotted to allow the bolt to move front to back and control the toe in/out
Here is the wishbone with the fully adjustable swing arm triangle fitted
and the other side
Then I fitted the 239x12mm disc brakes
The offset bolts are from are from the rear suspension of the 2006 Audi A6Q and the part numbers are
P/N 4F0 501 387 Bolt M12 x 1.5 x 115mm
I used P/N WHT 001 682 which is no longer available!
P/N WHT 000 708 domed nut
P/N 4F0 501 389C for the adjuster piece that sits under the nut
They cost me about 12 euros = 8 pounds = 16 usd for 1 nut, bolt and adjuster washer
And a couple of photos of them
And the link to the original topic that started all this
SAME POST, OLD FORUM
Just out of interest Les in Canada got these different part numbers from his source
8E0 501 387B Eccentric Bolt
4B0 501 385 Eccentric Washer
N 906 350 01 Nut
Great Job Chris!
Let us know the final alignment results once your rear beam is installed.
When I’m finished my installation, I’ll try to provide some photos as well.
Complete rear axle ready to fit 
With new mk4 brake calipers
New brake pipes
And a new Rallye ARB and mountings
Update Friday 8th june, She who must be obeyed is away this week  And I have the Syncro all to myself so I am slowly working through
1) Fitting the new rear axle and the remaining (rear) half of my 200 bhp capable exhaust system – Fitted
2) Fitting the new(larger)radiator & the twin fans – Fitted
3) Fitting the Hella DE Headlamps/spotlamps & grill – Fitted
4) Fitting the Hight adjustable steering column – Fitted
5) Fitting the Brand new 22mm (needed to cope with the rear discs)ABS/EDL master cylinder + harness & computer, M/C Fitted, but not the harness or computer yet
6)(And a very sad one this) Fitting the walnut dash kit that I just bought from fleabay – Fitted
Photos of progress on job 1
The old axle removed
It looks a bit bare under here
And looking forward
More photos to follow as the work progresses
And now for the bad news,
Due to a VW Netherlands computer upgrade the dealers haven’t been able to order parts for a few days, so my rear axle job is stopped in its tracks as I am waiting for 9 new axle mounting bolts for the rear and side mountings (some of the originals were a bit wa(i)sted),
I have also found 2 patches of serious rust (holes) on the inner sides of the lower parts of the wheel housings, considering that the car is 18&1/2 years old (jan 89) I am suprised that there is so little serious structural rust,
These rust patches will be easily covered by welded in plates of approx 15cm x 5cm, the inside will be Waxoyled for further protection
great going chris – the rust battles continue in sunny npton too…then it’s on to follow each of these guides and sort the mechanicals lol. Safest cars in the world these
And here are the first (not very good) photos of the new rear track,
I will measure up the different widths between the old and new track tomorrow when the car is sat on its wheels at the correct ride hight.
ATM the car is riding to high at the rear, so I may have to shorten the springs (again) and then get the tracking and camber/toe in done, what a bugger, then I will post track lengths etc,
After driving around the block the rear has settled down to an acceptable ride hight so it only needs tracking now.
OK its 1 cm (10mm) per side increased track, which will just fit under without rolling the arches, Thank you,
Went for a 10 kilometer ish drive today, a bit on the motorway as well and I am well pleased, although it has not had the rear tracking done yet, it felt good, in fact it felt very good indeed, the only problem is that the ABS light wont go out, I will have to sort that later possibly its one of the (old) wheel sensors on the new axle.
I got the rear tracked, cambered and toed in today, then went for a little drive, I am even more pleased than I was on tuesday  I cant believe the difference is so enormous, it feels so much more stable in corners than before (and it was pretty stable then, ask anyone on here who has driven it), the braking is also far better with the rear discs, I cant wait for next week when I wire in the EDL system onto the ABS  all in all a well worthwhile job 
ok – think that’s those links sorted chris – any others?
This looks like a top job for me to do!! Mine runs very low and the handling is affected by the amount of camber on the rear.
I just found this posted by Les on vortex, it is relevant to anyone doing this conversion http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3563664
Note the use of my photo to illustrate his question.
Glad you found the post! I was considering posting a link here, but you got to it before me!
I’m going to have to create a library of all the syncro tech questions I’ve answered. I keep finding myself answering similar questions repeatedly over the years.
What’s your camber and toe setup, Chris? Do you go with the stock setup?