2.0 conversion – now runs.

Forums Reference Tuning & upgrades 2.0 conversion – now runs.

This topic contains 81 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  no such user 9 years, 4 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 82 total)
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  • #4070

    no such user
    Participant

    The Passat was an electronic sender, sadly.

    #4093

    no such user
    Participant

    Going to collect the head and flywheel tomorrow.

    As it turns out the 2E flywheel is a 215mm one, not the 228mm one. This means a rather more limited availability of clutches for this. Never mind, I should be OK for a season with the existing clutch on the lightened 215mm flywheel.

    #4094

    no such user
    Participant

    Pictures up from this evening’s work here: http://diamondhell.com/index.php?option=com_rsgallery2&Itemid=29&catid=32

    Head off, short-block looks fine, no lips on the bores. Should do for the next season anyway :-)

    #4095

    pvl
    Member

    Hi TC,

    A little update on your engine’s internal state….

    The rockercover features a orange sticker. Just like
    my engine (g60)

    That sticker means : i’m an original (big buxx ) vw-overhauled
    engine. So that explains your bore-hone-pattern ;)

    Pascal

    #4083

    no such user
    Participant

    Seeing as the downpipe is so tight, if I don’t wrap it it’s going to strip paint and melt the steering column boot.

    Anyone got any recommendations with regards to the best value supplier for heat wrap, what I should get and how much I will need to do the manifold and downpipe. I’d also be interested to hear whether there’s any heatshielding I can attached to the shell to reflect any heat back off the shell (or whether that’s a waste of time).

    Finally, should I spray the downpipe with VHT paint (I’ve got some lying around) – does this stuff work?

    #4085

    Chris S
    Moderator

    Here is what you need
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ceramic-Fiber-Wrap-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-bandage_W0QQitemZ300199243661

    A thin ally plate makes a good heatshield when spaced of the body a bit, I cut mine from an old aluminium sink/draining board unit I bought from a 2nd hand shop for a fiver,

    As for the VHT paint, yes it works very well, I always paint my scooter exhaust with it and then retouch it up before every winter and I havn’t ever replaced an exhaust in 7 years of owning a scooter, unlike most scooter owners whose exhausts only lasts for 2 winters max, but do give it 2 or 3 coats as 1 isn’t thick enough to gve much protection.

    #4112

    Chris S
    Moderator

    I just searched ebay uk to see what I found, will look on the real ebay now

    #4113

    Chris S
    Moderator

    The 3rd one looks best value but only states 500 deg C

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-HEAT-WRAP-WESTFIELD-CATERHAM-DAX-COBRA_W0QQitemZ150217682363

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EXHAUST-HEAT-WRAP-THERMO-TEC-GENERATION-2-COPPER-1-x50_W0QQitemZ310024152740

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEAT-TREATED-EXHAUST-WRAP-50MM-X-1-5MM-X-30M-SST_W0QQitemZ290207946992

    How much of it do I need ?

    1″ x 50ft = We would reccommend when wrapping a pipe with a 2 inch outside diameter you will need 8 foot of wrap for every 1 foot of pipe.

    2″ x 50ft = We would reccommend when wrapping a pip with a 2 inch outside diameter you will need 4 foot of wrap for every 1 foot of pipe.

    #4114

    no such user
    Participant

    VHT pain is pants, i’ve never managed to get it to stay on a manufold or downpipe espectaly on the bends, 500 deg C for the heat wrap should be ok steel tends to turn into a puddel ont e floor at about 600 ish

    #4115

    Chris S
    Moderator

    quote:


    Originally posted by Chris S

    The 3rd one looks best value but only states 500 deg C

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-HEAT-WRAP-WESTFIELD-CATERHAM-DAX-COBRA_W0QQitemZ150217682363

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EXHAUST-HEAT-WRAP-THERMO-TEC-GENERATION-2-COPPER-1-x50_W0QQitemZ310024152740

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEAT-TREATED-EXHAUST-WRAP-50MM-X-1-5MM-X-30M-SST_W0QQitemZ290207946992

    How much of it do I need ?

    1″ x 50ft = We would recommend when wrapping a pipe with a 2 inch outside diameter you will need 8 foot of wrap for every 1 foot of pipe.

    2″ x 50ft = We would recommend when wrapping a pipe with a 2 inch outside diameter you will need 4 foot of wrap for every 1 foot of pipe.


    #4196

    no such user
    Participant

    After a period of norovirus and then a stinking cold I’ve finally managed to get back into the workshop this weekend.

    I’ve had a delivery of parts from Holland, which are all bob-on. We now have a Digifant loom, with lambda connector. The chipped ECU is here. I also have a a Golf1 GTI remote oil cooler, ready for fitting.

    I finally started building things up yesterday. The new tappets are in the head, the cam is bolted down on them, with a new seal on it. On the (cleaned and painted) block the intermediate shaft is back in, with a new seal, the new waterpump is fitted, with a the GU stat and housing and I’ve stepped out and bought a multi-point 19mm socket, so I’m ready to replace the crank seals on both ends, too.

    #4214

    no such user
    Participant

    Well last night was quite a session. I didn’t start until quite late. My aim was to get the head bolted down. Well, I got there in the end, but it took a big push to get there!

    Pretty much the first thing I did was to put the head on the block, with the new ABF gasket and start to drop the bolts down. All was going well until I got to the bolts on either front corners of the head – the holes were simply too small!

    After a chat with a couple of people I decided there was only one thing to do – after all the bolts had to be M12, as that’s what the size of the threads in the block are! Strangely the head had 12mm holes in the bottom of it, which meant it was relatively easy to drop a 12mm drill down through the head – my Christ did it make my Bosch drill sweat though! I had to keep checking that the hole wasn’t going off-centre and after finishing the holes and cleaning off the swarf I gingerly put the head back on – had I been accurate enough with the drill?

    Thankfully yes I had. I dropped the full complement of bolts down and worked around the bolt-down torque settings, so now the motors ready to have the tinware put on the cambelt end and then it can go back on the hoist, ready for the flywheel crank seal to be done, before further build-up.

    Pics are at: http://diamondhell.com/component/option,com_rsgallery2/Itemid,29/catid,33/

    #4216

    no such user
    Participant

    Power steering pump on last night, also new crank seal on the flywheel end, then tinware, then the lightened flywheel, then the clutch. I also fitted the cam tinware and lifting eye to the head, so it’s off the engine stand.

    Many thanks to Chris, who I was badgering last night for various torque figures [:I]. Usual great tech support from Holland!

    M’mmmmmm – starting to look like an engine!

    P3110057.jpg

    #4219

    Chris S
    Moderator

    BTW that wasn’t last night over here, it was the early hours of this morning! [;)] but thankfully you only live next door and not on the other side of the pond or I may not have got any sleep at all [xx(]

    #4223

    no such user
    Participant

    I can now confirm that it’s not possible to fit a Golf1 GTI remote oil cooler housing to a 2E block – the top bolt in the 2E housing is higher up.

    I also found out just HOW short the 1.8 cambelt is, as I had a 1.8 belt supplied instead of a 2.0 tall block one.

    After that I found out that the studs that I have for the exhaust manifold, while appearing long enough are too short once screwed in fully.

    After these roaring successes I did get the front (‘custom’) parts of the exhaust sprayed with VHT paint, so the downpipe is ready to be wrapped in the next couple of days.

    Tomorrow I will mostly be throwing things at auto-factors, in a rather angry fashion.

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