1990 Golf GT G60 Syncro – My heaven and my Hell

Forums Project Cars (contains photos) 1990 Golf GT G60 Syncro – My heaven and my Hell

This topic contains 509 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by  Housey 8 months, 4 weeks ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 481 through 495 (of 510 total)
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  • #9918

    Chris S
    Moderator

    Why not use a G60 block?

    #9919

    Housey
    Participant

    can’t find any that is good. everyone i can find has too worn cylinders. and need to be bored. and boring the cylinders, and buying custom pistons is out of the question at this time :)

    therefor, a 16v block will be more suitable, as they don’t usually have that degree of wear in the cylinders

    thats why :)

    #9921

    Housey
    Participant

    got some work done today, started dismantlig the head

    this is what i started with. complete head. with 288degree camshafts

    IMG_0122.jpg

    took the camshafts out
    IMG_0123.jpg

    the the lifters
    IMG_0125.jpg

    then i set about removing the water outlet. and ofcouse one of the bolts broke, as usual. i got the bolt out by threading a nut over the rest of the bolt, then welding the bolt and nut together, didn’t take any pics of that as i managet to set fire to me workbench
    IMG_0126.jpg

    IMG_0127.jpg

    then this happend :/ god dam-n old brass sensors. this broke aswell
    IMG_0129.jpg

    IMG_0128.jpg

    but, after some thinking i figured i could try using an XZN bit to remove the remaining bits. so. i found myself an 8mm XZN bit, tapped it in there. its soft brass. so i didn’t use much force
    IMG_0131.jpg

    and voila, it came right out :)
    IMG_0132.jpg

    here i’ve taken the inlet valves out
    IMG_0133.jpg

    then the exhaustvalves
    IMG_0134.jpg

    and that was all i did today. now its ready for some cleaning, then grind casting flash of and relap the valves and put new stemseals on. then the head is god to go.

    going to use a different set of camshafts, as i doubt that the 288 ones will be any good for turbocharging

    #10076

    Housey
    Participant

    this is how i overcame the missing bolthole on the KR block

    kinda hard to see as the block is all glossy since i’ve just put a new coat of paint on it

    kinda an easy fix. just made a plate, drilled a hole, welded a nut on the rear of that hole, then posisioned it correctly then welded the plate to the block.

    probably not going to last forever, but the car isn’t going to last forver either, so i’m not too worried

    pic:
    IMG_0175.jpg

    #10355

    Housey
    Participant

    i suck at keeping all my forum threads up to date. but the engine is more or less finished now. only a couple of small things remain (Oil cooler, downpipe, charge air hoses)

    but, all in good time :)

    now on to the fun stuff, the pictures

    i’ll start where i left off :)

    the IM-shaft was put in a lathe, looks better, and is now in balance (not that it matters, but its done now)

    IMG_0183.jpg[/URL]

    new uprated rods:
    IMG_0184.jpg[/URL]

    these are used Wiseco pistons, 8.5 compression, 81.5 dia
    IMG_0186.jpg[/URL]

    and they apparently weigh in at 395 grams ;)
    IMG_0187.jpg[/URL]

    heres the block honed and ready for more work.
    IM-Shaft in. new bearings
    IMG_0190.jpg[/URL]

    had a friend of mine make a tool to replace the IM-shaft bearings, so he made two of these, one a bit larger then the other
    IMG_0196.jpg[/URL]

    IMG_0197.jpg[/URL]

    IMG_0198.jpg[/URL]

    cheap ass ebay 16v inlet manifold. the fit and finish sucket so much ass i don’t even know where to start. but a few hours of grinding etc made it fit
    IMG_0214.jpg[/URL]

    AN-4 Fittings/hoses for the Oil inlet on the turbo, flanges are not being used, they are for a different turbo system
    IMG_0217.jpg[/URL]

    new piston-rings, 440cc bosch “green-giant” injectors and new crank bearings
    IMG_0219.jpg[/URL]

    some headwork:
    The head was ported and semi polished, new guides. relapped valves
    IMG_0220.jpg[/URL]

    just finished reaming and honing the guides here
    IMG_0222.jpg[/URL]

    tapered guides from Techtonics tuning
    IMG_0223.jpg[/URL]

    valves assembled:
    IMG_0225.jpg[/URL]

    bottom-end assembled. new rings, sputter rod bearings
    IMG_0226.jpg[/URL]

    all torqued up
    IMG_0227.jpg[/URL]

    new freezeplugs. and plug for the watercooling hose on the turbo

    started more assembling
    IMG_0230.jpg[/URL]

    new crank oilseal, imshaft oilseal/o-ring. new crank cog-wheel and bolt
    IMG_0232.jpg[/URL]

    head decked
    IMG_0234.jpg[/URL]

    G60 MLS headgasket
    IMG_0235.jpg[/URL]

    head on, torqued up and fittet that ebay crap
    IMG_0236.jpg[/URL]

    trial fit of the turbo. i’ve got a different manifold on now, which has the 5th leg cut away and welded shut
    IMG_0238.jpg[/URL]

    more fun
    IMG_0240.jpg[/URL]

    IMG_0268.jpg[/URL]

    IMG_0269.jpg[/URL]

    oil hose for the turbo
    20130828_184951.jpg[/URL]

    20130828_184959.jpg[/URL]

    20130828_185006.jpg[/URL]

    20130828_185012.jpg[/URL]

    oilreturn, 10-AN
    20130829_174812.jpg[/URL]

    and thats pretty much where i’m at picture wise. oil return is finished, oilpan is back on.

    #10426

    Housey
    Participant

    not much has happend these last months. havn’t had the will do to much, but that will eventually turn around i hope :)

    anyhow, is there anyway to make the syncro feel more safe to drive?

    this is regarding braking, i know its transferring power across the front and rear axle all the time. but this is down right dangerous

    when i brake normally, I.E going downhill with snow on the road, when i’m braking, (just touching the brakes).. it starts sailing, locking up the fronts.

    and before you say anything, i’m using to drive in the snow, and i’ve driven several other cars latley, they don’t do this at all

    #10437

    gaz.veedub
    Member

    looking good mate, ive got a 16vt in my syncro, it sooooooooooooooooooooo much better than the stock engine ive had bag of fun in mine. how long until your finished?

    #10438

    Housey
    Participant

    i’ve got absolutley no idea on when its going to be finished :) there is a lot that has to be done first.

    the engine itself is more or less finished, that only need an oilfilter and oil to start. but there are many parts that i need to source first :)

    but i’ll get there, eventually. i’m having some problems sourcing software for the Digifant ECU these days ;(

    #10440

    Chris S
    Moderator

    I may know someone who could help with the Digifant.

    #10583

    Housey
    Participant

    well. engine still stands in the enginestand.. i’ve lost my job, hopefully i can manange keeping the engine, but all has to do with my future economics..

    ohwell. i’ve still got some money. and was thinking of buying some cheap ass shockabsorbers (mine has started to leak and whatnot)

    found these:

    http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190867184394&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:DE:1123

    but the seller gave me this:

    “ich versende leider nicht nach norwegen”

    i’m glad norway is not in the EU..but this is ridiculous

    #11156

    Housey
    Participant

    i think it might be time for an update here.

    a few months after my last post my employer figured out that they could not do with out me, as i’m a rare breed of Cable-tv technicians over here.

    engine is completed, and in the car and its running well.

    so. heres a feckload of pics from the last year and a half. and i’ll try to start where i left off.

    unfortunatley i suck at taking photos as i go. so bear with me.

    here goes:

    fitting a universal fuelrail
    DSC_0032.jpg

    DSC_0033.jpg

    fitted:
    DSC_0035.jpg

    DSC_0036.jpg

    misc:
    DSC_0037.jpg

    oil return on the turbo fitted
    DSC_0038.jpg

    IMG_0318.jpg

    block breether
    IMG_0323.jpg

    decided to paint the intake manifold (which turned out to be stupid as hell. more on that a bit later)
    IMG_0324.jpg

    downpipe manufacturing
    9abb0439-a55e-49fe-af2e-3fa9ff71be3d.jpg

    painting the water pipe
    DSC_0314.jpg

    brake servo check-valve (AN-6)
    DSC_0315.jpg

    clutch (i fekking hate this clutch.. clutchnet stage 2 (02A) )
    IMG_0362.jpg

    IMG_0363.jpg

    i had to open the gearbox (just out of curiosity, which turned out to be a good thing)

    IMG_0364.jpg

    O2C Diff
    IMG_0366.jpg

    found this. this is the diff carrier bearing race.
    IMG_0369.jpg

    clean box
    IMG_0376.jpg

    new strengthend clutch fork
    IMG_0380.jpg

    IMG_0381.jpg

    removal of bearings on diff
    IMG_0385.jpg

    IMG_0387.jpg

    IMG_0389.jpg

    removed the bearing race (the rollers and cage are destroyed at this point)
    IMG_0390.jpg

    all taken of
    IMG_0391.jpg

    new bearing pressed on
    IMG_0392.jpg

    IMG_0393.jpg

    IMG_0394.jpg

    setting the diff preload
    IMG_0396.jpg

    IMG_0397.jpg

    reassembling the box
    IMG_0401.jpg

    IMG_0402.jpg

    addded a shaft brace (which i took of as it came in conflicht with the clutch fork)
    IMG_0405.jpg

    5th gear back
    IMG_0406.jpg

    IMG_0407.jpg

    box finished
    IMG_0411.jpg

    at this point, i decided to start pulling the G60 engine
    DSC_0337.jpg

    IMG_0408.jpg

    IMG_0412.jpg

    IMG_0413.jpg

    the old G60 powerplant is finally out
    IMG_0414.jpg

    dirty as hell…
    IMG_0415.jpg

    IMG_0416.jpg

    cleaned it up a bit
    IMG_0418.jpg

    put the clutch on the engine
    IMG_0419.jpg

    all together now
    IMG_0420.jpg

    IMG_0421.jpg

    IMG_0422.jpg

    trial fit
    IMG_0423.jpg

    its gonna be tight as fekk with a downpipe here…
    IMG_0424.jpg

    started making the downpipe (i’m not a fabricator, and suck at welding, but i did this all by my self, and it works)
    IMG_0427.jpg

    IMG_0428.jpg

    IMG_0428.jpg

    IMG_0431.jpg

    IMG_0434.jpg

    first go at positioning the flex part.. didnt end up doing it this way
    DSC_0357.jpg

    first try..
    DSC_0359.jpg

    the flex coupler for the wastegate
    DSC_0360.jpg

    this is how the DP ended up like. still in fabrication here.
    DSC_0367.jpg

    wastegate plumbing
    DSC_0368.jpg

    ugly ass welds
    DSC_0372.jpg

    final welding
    DSC_0372.jpg

    wastegate Tee
    DSC_0374.jpg

    all welded up and ready for wrapping
    DSC_0375.jpg

    DSC_0376.jpg

    engine and downpipe in the car for a test fit
    DSC_0384.jpg

    plumbing of the charge air pipes
    DSC_0430.jpg

    remember that i said that it was stupid of me to paint the inlet manifold? heres why.. i had some AN bungs welded to it…
    DSC_0432.jpg

    blocked the G60 air return on the TB adapter
    DSC_0434.jpg

    made a bracket for the charge-air pipe
    DSC_0438.jpg

    added the Fuel Pressure Regulator
    DSC_0440.jpg

    CO pot and bend after the IC
    DSC_0441.jpg

    then i had to take the gear box out again, the clutch did not feel good at all. too stiff and the fork was in contact with the brace i removed
    20141221_131116.jpg

    20141221_131718.jpg

    20141221_131740.jpg

    and heres my problem.. wrong throwout bearing. i bought a new LUK brand and used it on a Clutchnet clutch which has sachs styled springs on the pressure plate).
    20141221_133034.jpg

    20141221_133038.jpg

    all back together. and at this point, i think i’ve started it

    20150110_180400.jpg

    (and a little video of the second start up ever on this engine)
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOUjwM-XbaU

    bought a new master and slave cylinder for the cluthc, installed these with new AN-3 lines
    20150214_170213.jpg

    i had tons of problems with the digifant setup, and my main digifant mentor is sadly not among us anymore :(. so i decided to ditch the digifant and go with megasquirt
    20150228_181301.jpg

    more wiring. (and if you are paying attention, you can also see that the charge air piping has changed :). i ditched the setup i had, and went with the G60 intercooler and radiator instead)
    20150419_171131.jpg

    20150419_171138.jpg

    20150419_171149.jpg

    20150419_171158.jpg

    new hoses for the hot-side since the routing is different with the G60 intercoolr
    20150419_171210.jpg

    wiring
    20150503_145800.jpg

    getting somewhere
    20150503_145826.jpg

    radiator hose.. i don’t like the look of this. so i’m redoing it in the future
    20150507_182122.jpg

    and here is pretty much how it looks today :)
    20150524_161508.jpg

    i don’t use the golf much, bought myself a 1999 Volvo V70 as a daily driver.

    but it does work. and i do use ut from time to time to have fun.
    i’ve got much to do on the mapping of the ECU.

    and some random problems with some water leaks and stuff like that

    #11160

    Did you put the brace back in? I have seen them machined a little to make clearance. I am going to use a Golf G60 fan top cover to hide my hose modification. Did you change to a better hose? Thanks for all the pictures!

    #11161

    Housey
    Participant

    well. the brace i bought was a knock-off.

    if you want the real one you have to send in your bellhousing for machining.. and it costs way more too

    this flimsy thin aluminium part wont do ****. its just a hidden bling-bling thing for your gearbox

    not worth the money. all you could install a 2mm washer on each of the studs so get the same result :)

    #11162

    Chris S
    Moderator

    Nice work Danny.

    #11165

    quote:


    Originally posted by Houseyif you want the real one you have to send in your bellhousing for machining.. and it costs way more too


    I have not seen this, the case being sent in, mentioned in the adverts here in USA.

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